渐变纬向管状小提花织物的设计与开发  

Design and development of gradual weft hollow mini-jacquard fabric

作　　者：隋全侠 SUI Quanxia(Textile and Clothing Institute,College of Jiangsu Engineering Vocational Technology,Nantong,Jiangsu 226007,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院纺织服装学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2020年第10期17-20,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心项目[苏政办2014(22)号]。

摘　　要：为了在SGA598型小样织布机上织造渐变纬向管状小提花织物,在渐变纬向管状形成方法、组织及配色设计、织造工艺等方面进行了创新设计。通过采用局部管状组织,使纬向管状先由宽到窄、再由窄到宽逐渐过渡;在2组渐变的纬向管状之间设计了具有青花瓷风格的纬起花菱形纹样。织造时经纱单独固定,通过悬挂不同质量的重物和旋转送经手轮调整经纱上机张力,达到双轴织造、地经纱停送、起管经纱急送经的要求;起管和起花区域部分纬纱参与布边织造,织得布边较平整。经过设计与实践,开发出了渐变纬向管状小提花织物,渐变纬向管状成形良好、纬起花花型饱满,布边整齐,拓宽了纬向管状织物的设计思路。In order to develop a gradual weft tubular mini-jacquard fabric on SGA598 sample loom,innovative design was carried out in the aspects of gradual weft tubular fabric forming method,structure and color matching design,weaving process and so on.By adopting local tubular structure,the zonal tubular structure was first made from wide to narrow and then gradually excessive from narrow to wide.A blue and white porcelain diamond pattern was designed between two groups of gradually changing weft tubular shapes.During weaving,the warp yarns were fixed separately,and the tension of the warp loading machine was adjusted by hanging different weights and rotating let-off hand wheels,so as to meet the requirements of biaxial weaving,stop-delivery of ground warp yarns and urgent let-off of pipe-lifting warp yarns.Part of the weft yarn in the pipe-raising and flower-raising areas is involved in selvedge weaving,and the selvedge is relatively flat.After design and practice,a small jacquard fabric with gradual weft was developed,which had good tubular shape,full weft pattern and neat selvedge,which broadened the design idea of the tubular fabric with gradual weft.

关 键 词：渐变纬向管状 小提花 纹样设计 组织设计 上机张力 

分 类 号：TS111.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]