艺术人类学视阈下花腰傣无结构服装研究  

Study on the Structureless Clothing of Hua-yao Dai from the Perspective of Art Anthropology

作　　者：果霖[1] 苟双晓[2] 李刚[3] 刘玉璟[4] 张天会[1] GUO Lin;GOU Shang-xiao;LI Gang;LIU Yu-jing;ZHANG Tian-hui(Yunnan Agriculture University,Kunming,Yunnan 650201,China;Chongqing University of Arts and Sciences,Chongqing 402160,China;Kunming University of Science and Technology,Kunming,Yunnan,650504;Yunnan Minzu University,Kunming,Yunnan 650504,China)

机构地区：[1]云南农业大学,云南昆明650201 [2]重庆文理学院,重庆402160 [3]昆明理工大学,云南昆明650504 [4]云南民族大学,云南昆明650504

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2020年第4期52-55,69,共5页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

基　　金：云南省哲学社会科学艺术科学规划青年项目“云南花腰傣服装服饰研究”[编号:A2018QS22];教育部人文社会科学研究一般项目“傣族织锦艺术符号与傣锦中的和谐文化思想研究”[编号:13YJC720049]。

摘　　要：在实地调研的基础上,运用艺术人类学的研究方法,将花腰傣服饰置于其发生发展的具体社会环境中,探究其无结构形式以及背后隐含的意义世界。提出了花腰傣服饰具有以点定位、以线分割、以面布局、以体建构的艺术造型特征;分析了花腰傣妇女"套""裹""缠"的着装方式,以及"组合""套和""重合"的着装构成形式。On the basis of field investigation and using the research method of art anthropology,this paper places the Hua-yao Dai clothing in the specific social environment where it develops and explores its structureless form and the implied meaning world.It is pointed out that the Hua-yao Dai clothing has the artistic modeling features of point orientation,line division,surface layout and body construction.The paper analyzes Hua-yao Dai women’s dressing ways of different wrapping,as well as the dress composing forms of"combination","covering"and"overlapping".

关 键 词：花腰傣服饰 无结构服装 女子服饰 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]