北魏素绢裤的造型结构研究与应用设计  

RESEARCH AND APPLICATION DESIGN ON THE MODELING STRUCTUER OF PLAIN SILK TROUSERS DURING THE NORTHERN WEI DYNASTY

作　　者：闪雅洁 贺阳[1] SHAN YAJIE;HE YANG

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院

出　　处：《设计》2020年第18期96-99,共4页Design

基　　金：“北京服装学院高水平教师队伍建设专项资金”支持,项目编号为:BIFTTD201804;国家社科基金艺术学重大项目“中华民族服饰文化研究”(18ZD20)支持。

摘　　要：为研究北魏素绢裤的造型结构,探寻其特殊的形制与制衣方式。本文以民族服饰博物馆馆藏“北魏素绢裤”为研究对象,根据实物测量与文献考据探究其裁片、裁剪方式、布幅之间的关系。通过绘制制作图对裆部结构设计进行深入分析,结合款式图并复制样衣,综合探索其造型蕴含的设计感。得到了珍贵的北魏时期服装的实物研究资料,对古人制衣的方式及造物观有了更深的认识,在传承传统制衣观念的同时,从北魏素绢裤的造型结构中汲取设计灵感,给予现代服装设计新的启发。In order to study the shape and structure of the Northern Wei Dynasty plain silk trousers,to explore its special shape and clothing.This article takes the"Northern Wei Dynasty plain silk trousers"in the collection of the National Costume Museum as the research object,and explores the relationship between the csut pieces,cutting methods,and the width of the cloth based on the physical measurements and literature references.In-depth analysis of the crotch structure design by drawing production drawings,combined with the style drawings and copying the sample clothing,comprehensively explore the design sense contained in its shape.Obtained precious physical research materials on the clothing of the Northern Wei Dynasty,and had a deeper understanding of the ancient people's clothing making methods and creation ideas,While inheriting the traditional concept of making clothes,we draw design inspiration from the modeling structure of the Northern Wei Dynasty plain silk trousers and give new inspiration to modern clothing design.

关 键 词：素绢裤 造型 结构 矩形裁片 布幅 

分 类 号：TS941.714.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]