ATR-FTIR技术在面部敏感性皮肤角质层成分分析中的应用研究  

Application of ATR-FTIR spectroscopy in analysis of stratum corneum components in sensitive facial skin

作　　者：江文才 谈益妹 徐雅菲 江长清 杨静文 徐颖盈 Jiang Wencai;Tan Yimei;Xu Yafei;Jiang Changqing;Yang Jingwen;Xu Yingying(Skin and Cosmetic Research Department,Shanghai Dermatology Hospital,NMPA Key Laboratory for Monitoring and Evaluation of Cosmetics,Shanghai 200443,China)

机构地区：[1]上海市皮肤病医院皮肤与化妆品研究室,国家药品监督管理局化妆品监测评价重点实验室,200443

出　　处：《中华皮肤科杂志》2020年第10期795-800,共6页Chinese Journal of Dermatology

基　　金：上海市卫生计生委科研课题项目(201740247);中华医学会-欧莱雅中国人健康皮肤/毛发研究项目(S2018151110)。

摘　　要：目的利用衰减全反射傅里叶变化红外光谱仪(ATR-FTIR)分析敏感性皮肤与正常皮肤角质层成分的差异,探讨该技术在敏感性皮肤发生机制研究中的应用价值。方法自2018年12月至2019年2月,招募在上海市居住≥6年的148例志愿者,通过问卷调查、乳酸刺痛试验和辣椒素试验,将受试者分为正常皮肤组和敏感性皮肤组;同时,记录乳酸刺痛试验和辣椒素试验中受试者的总刺痛评分和总灼痛评分。应用ATR-FTIR检测角质层成分,包括天然保湿因子(NMF)、角质层脂质、游离脂肪酸(FFA)和β/α比值;同时应用其他无创技术测量经表皮失水率(TEWL)、角质层含水量、角质层脂质、皮肤pH值和3种周围感觉神经纤维的电流感觉阈值和浅表皮肤血流灌注量等皮肤生理参数。分析角质层成分与总刺痛评分和总灼痛评分的Spearman相关系数,以及与皮肤生理参数的Pearson相关系数。结果73例志愿者完成全部试验,其中敏感性皮肤组34例,男15例,女19例,年龄(41.8±8.9)岁;正常皮肤组39例,男19例,女20例,年龄(42.8±9.4)岁。敏感性皮肤组和正常皮肤组角质层NMF分别为30.90±7.38、37.01±8.77(t=3.193,P<0.01),FFA分别为14.90±6.75和20.45±11.76(t=2.422,P<0.05),β/α值分别为3.17±1.03和2.67±0.56(t=-2.595,P<0.05),角质层脂质两组差异无统计学意义(t=1.458,P>0.05)。皮肤生理参数中,敏感性皮肤组TEWL显著高于正常皮肤组(t=-3.496,P<0.001),而5 Hz电流感觉阈值和表皮致密度显著低于正常皮肤组(P<0.05),角质层脂质差异无统计学意义(P>0.05)。相关分析显示,NMF、FFA和β/α与TEWL(r值分别为-0.405、-0.562、0.503,均P<0.01)和总刺痛评分(rs值分别为-0.401、-0.285、0.316,P<0.01或0.05)均呈良好的相关性,同时,表皮致密度与NMF(r=0.402,P<0.01)和β/α比值(r=-0.369,P<0.05)也呈良好的相关性。但NMF、FFA和β/α与角质层脂质、3种感觉神经纤维的电流感觉阈值、浅表皮肤血流灌注量及表�Objective To investigate differences in stratum corneum components between sensitive skin and normal skin by attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared(ATR-FTIR)spectroscopy,and to evaluate the value of ATR-FTIR spectroscopy in the study of pathogenesis of sensitive skin.Methods From December 2018 to February 2019,148 volunteers were recruited,who had lived in Shanghai for≥6 years.Through questionnaire survey,lactic acid sting test and capsaicin test,the subjects were divided into normal skin group and sensitive skin group;meanwhile,total sting score and total burning score of the subjects were recorded in the lactic acid sting test and capsaicin test respectively.ATR-FTIR spectroscopy was performed to detect stratum corneum components,including natural moisturizing factor(NMF),stratum corneum lipids,free fatty acids(FFA)andβ-sheet/α-helix(β/α)ratio;moreover,other non-invasive techniques were used to measure skin physiological parameters,including transepidermal water loss(TEWL),stratum corneum hydration(SCH)levels,stratum corneum lipids,skin pH,current perception thresholds of 3 peripheral sensory nerve fibers,and superficial skin blood flow perfusion.Spearman correlation coefficients between stratum corneum components and the total sting score as well as total burning pain score were analyzed,so were Pearson correlation coefficients between the stratum corneum components and skin physiological parameters.Results A total of 73 volunteers completed all tests,including 15 males and 19 females aged 41.8±8.9 years in the sensitive skin group,and 19 males and 20 females aged 42.8±9.4 years in the normal skin group.Compared with the normal skin group,the sensitive skin group showed significantly decreased levels of stratum corneum NMF(30.90±7.38 vs.37.01±8.77,t=3.193,P<0.01)and FFA(14.90±6.75 vs.20.45±11.76,t=2.422,P<0.05),but significantly increasedβ/αratio(3.17±1.03 vs.2.67±0.56,t=-2.595,P<0.05);there was no significant difference in stratum corneum lipid content between the two groups(t

关 键 词：皮肤生理学过程 皮脂 敏感性皮肤 角质层屏障 衰减全反射傅里叶变化红外光谱 

分 类 号：R751[医药卫生—皮肤病学与性病学]