织物外观平整度测定方法用棉织物的适用性评价  

Applicability evaluation on fabric appearance smoothness test method for cotton fabrics

作　　者：郑苗 沈红影 徐洁 丁雪梅[1,2,3] 吴雄英 ZHENG Miao;SHEN Hongying;XU Jie;DING Xuemei;WU Xiongying(Fashion and Art Design Institute,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Shanghai International Institute of Design&Innovation,Shanghai 200080,China;Shanghai Customs,Shanghai 200135,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051 [3]上海国际设计创新研究院,上海200080 [4]上海海关,上海200135

出　　处：《丝绸》2020年第10期24-28,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家重点研发计划资助项目(2018YFF0215703)。

摘　　要：织物洗后外观平整度是评价经洗涤、烘干、熨烫后服装外观质量的重要指标,其客观测定方法是多年来的研究热点,然而在洗涤、烘干、熨烫条件下,适用于测定织物洗后外观平整度预期用途的织物尚未确定。文章选择半漂(无抗皱整理)和免烫抗皱两种纯棉织物,经不同的洗涤程序洗涤、晾干后,依据AATCC124织物洗后外观平整度评价方法主观评级,评价两种织物的灵敏度;再将半漂纯棉织物经不同的洗涤和烘干程序处理,依据AATCC124主观评级,判断其精密度。结果表明,半漂纯棉织物在95%置信水平时,各组均值差的显著性值小于0.05;同一测试程序下,10块织物洗后外观平整度相对标准偏差小于10%,表明半漂纯棉织物具有足够的灵敏度及精密度,可用于测定织物洗后外观平整度的预期用途。Fabric appearance smoothness after washing is an important index for evaluating the appearance quality of clothing after washing,drying,and ironing.The objective evaluation method has been a research hotspot for many years.However,under the conditions of washing,drying,and ironing,the fabric applicable to determining fabric smoothness appearance after washing has not been determined.Therefore,two pure cotton fabrics(semi-bleached fabric without crease-resistant finishing,and non-ironing anti-crease fabric)were chosen in this study.After washing and airing with different washing procedures,the sensitivity of the two fabrics was evaluated according to AATCC124 fabric smoothness appearance after repeated laundering-subjective rating.Then,semi-bleached pure cotton fabric was treated by different washing and drying procedures,and its precision was evaluated according to AATCC124 subjective rating.The results showed that the significance of mean value difference in each group was less than 0.05 when the semi-bleached pure cotton fabric was at 95%confidence level.Under the same test procedures,the relative standard deviation of appearance smoothness of 10 fabrics after washing was less than 10%,indicating that the semi-bleached pure cotton fabric has sufficient sensitivity and precision and hence can be used to determine the intended use of the smoothness appearance of the fabric after washing.

关 键 词：织物洗后外观平整度 客观评价 100%棉织物 精密度 灵敏度 

分 类 号：TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]