苎麻织物“升”的解读  

Interpretation of the unit"Sheng"of ramie fabric

作　　者：李岱祺[1] 涂长茂 代长生 高书景 李强[1] 李建强[1] LI Daiqi;TU Changmao;DAI Changsheng;GAO Shujing;LI Qiang;LI Jianqiang(Famous Teacher Studio of Textile Science and Engineering,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430200;Xianning Branch,Hubei Peovinc Fibre Inspection Bureau,Xianning 437100)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学纺织科学与工程学科名师工作室,武汉430200 [2]湖北省纤维检验局咸宁分局,咸宁437100

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2020年第4期11-14,共4页Fashion Guide

基　　金：湖北省服饰艺术与文化研究中心重点项目(2018HFG002)。

摘　　要：[研究意义]苎麻织物“升”的解读,多数文献仅注意到古人的表述,没有系统地对其进行表述。[研究方法]文章通过文献研究、现代仪器分析的表征方法,对苎麻织物的“升”进行古代技术和现代科学的表征,[研究结果与结论]研究认为:(1)升的出现使得织物的品质好坏及应用较明确地对应了人的等级,加速了中国古代的等级制度构建。(2)苎麻纤维的长度、细度决定了其成为三十升布的可能。(3)苎麻织物规格(布幅和匹长)与织造效率之间存在着负相关关系。(4)苎麻的纤维刚度决定在性能更优越的纤维引进中国后必然被取代。(5)苎麻的“升”,可以说是中国人对纺织品标准特有贡献,纺织科技史及纺织教育中应给与其应有的地位与荣光。In the interpretation of the unit"Sheng"of ramie fabric,most references only pay attention to the expression of the ancients,but do not describe it systematically.Through the characterization methods of literature research and modern instru-mental analysis,the article carries out ancient technology and modern scientific characterization of the"Sheng"of ramie fab-rics.The research shows that:(1)The appearance of the unit“Sheng”makes the quality of the fabric and its application more clearly correspond to human hierarchy and accelerated the construction of the hierarchical system in ancient China.(2)The length and fineness of ramie fiber determine the possibility of becoming 30“Sheng”cloth.(3)There is a negative correlation between the specifications of ramie fabric(width and length)and weaving efficiency.(4)The fiber stiffness of ramie is deter-mined to be replaced by introduction of more superior fiber into China.(5)The"Sheng"of ramie can be said to be the Chi-nese people's unique contribution to textile standards.The history of textile technology and textile education should be given its due status and glory.

关 键 词：苎麻 升 织物密度 科技史 

分 类 号：TS107[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]