全成形提花组织针织帽的设计开发  

Design and Knitting Process of Fully Formed Jacquard Knitted Hat

作　　者：吴志明 张丽荣 Wu Zhiming;Zhang Lirong(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《针织工业》2020年第9期5-8,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：国家社科基本艺术学项目(18BG114);教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(18YJA760048)。

摘　　要：为研究全成形提花组织针织帽的设计方法和成形原理,在7针/25.4 mm的岛精SWG091N2双针床全成形电脑横机上,编织全成形提花组织针织帽。分析全成形帽的造型设计、单面提花组织设计、导纱器分配、提花组织密度设置、编织原理。实践表明:全成形普通帽及双重帽两种帽型适合设计提花组织;全成形提花组织针织帽进行组织设计时可以使用长线条,提花组织纱环背后的浮线通过集圈进行固定,有利于稳定编织;此外,编织全成形提花组织针织帽时适合使用回踢导纱器的方式避免织针撞针。In order to study the design methods and forming principle of fully formed jacquard hat,a fully formed jacquard hat was designed and knitted on G7 Shima Seiki SWG091 N2 double needle bar full forming computerized flat knitting machine.The hat-shape Design,single jacquard stitch design,yarn guider distribution,jacquard stitch density setting and knitting principle of the fully formed hat were analyzed.The practice shows that the two kinds of hat types of fully formed ordinary cap and double hat are suitable for designing jacquard structure.Long lines can be used in the structure design of fully formed jacquard hat,and the floating line behind the jacquard loop is fixed by the tuck,which is beneficial to stable knitting.In addition,it is suitable to use the way of kicking back yarn guider to avoid the needle hitting when knitting the full-shaped jacquard hat.

关 键 词：全成形针织帽 提花组织 帽型设计 编织工艺 C形编织 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]