五代时期归义军凉国夫人浔阳翟氏服饰考释  

Study on the Costume of the Reguiar's Army Lady Liang,Mrs.ZHAI of Xunyang in the Five Dynasties

作　　者：钟雪梅 乔洪 毛艺坛 ZHONG Xuemei;QIAO Hong;MAO Yitan(Fashion and Art Design Institute,Sichuan Normal University,Chengdu 610066,China)

机构地区：[1]四川师范大学服装与设计艺术学院,四川成都610066

出　　处：《服装学报》2020年第5期432-438,共7页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学一般项目(16BG112);教育部人文社科项目(17YJC760057)。

摘　　要：基于莫高窟和榆林窟等遗迹中的供养人壁画,结合凉国夫人浔阳翟氏的人物背景,通过文献、图像资料和考古实物相结合的方法,分析其裙襦、鞋履、饰品、面靥等服饰的特点。研究认为,凉国夫人浔阳翟氏的服饰在延续中原唐风的基础上,受到了周边少数民族的影响,代表了五代西北敦煌贵族妇女形象,是时代与多元文化融合的典型例证。According to the patron mural in Mogao Grottoes and Yulin Grottoes and other relics,combined with the character background of the reguiar's army Lady Liang,Mrs.ZHAI of Xunyang,through the method of combining literature,images and archaeological objects,the paper analyzed the characteristics of costumes,such as skirt,shoes,ornaments,face and other costumes.According to the research,the costume has been influenced by the surrounding ethnic minorities on the basis of the continuation of the Tang style in the central plain of China,and represented the image in the Five Dynasties of noble women in Dunhuang in northwest China,which was a typical example of the integration of times and multiculturalism.

关 键 词：莫高窟 归义军 凉国夫人 浔阳翟氏 服饰 

分 类 号：TS186.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]