聚酰亚胺粘胶山羊绒18.5 tex半竹节AB纱的研发  

Development of Polyimide Viscose Cashmere 18.5 tex Semi-slubby AB Yarn

作　　者：刘梅城 穆征 洪杰 秦小伟 姜琦 LIU Meicheng;MU Zheng;HONG Jie;QIN Xiaowei;JIANG Qi(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Jiangsu Nantong,226001)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226001

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2020年第11期25-28,共4页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：2018年江苏工程职业技术学院科技创新团队项目(苏工院〔2018〕205号);2018年泉州市科技计划项目(2018C126R);江苏先进纺织工程中心建设项目(苏政办发〔2014〕22号);2020年江苏高校“青蓝工程”中青年学术带头人培养对象资助项目(苏教师函〔2020〕10号);中国纺织工业联合会科技指导性项目(2018021);2020年江苏省大学生创新创业训练计划项目(202010958020Y)。

摘　　要：探讨聚酰亚胺/粘胶/山羊绒40/40/2018.5 tex半竹节AB纱的纺制工艺要点。基于竹节纱、赛络纺、段彩纱等纺纱技术与纱线结构的研究,提出了半竹节AB纱的设计。采用聚酰亚胺、山羊绒、粘胶3种纤维进行组合,通过功能与色彩配置设计了聚酰亚胺/粘胶80/20和粘胶/山羊绒60/40两种纤维组分的粗纱,在经过段彩纱、赛络集聚纺改造的细纱机上成功开发出半竹节AB纱,其织物保暖性能优异。认为:聚酰亚胺粘胶山羊绒半竹节AB纱合理的工艺设计可以满足功能性花式纱线产品的设计开发要求。The spinning key points of polyimide/viscose/cashmere 40/40/2018.5 tex semi-slubby AB yarn were discussed.Based on the studies on spinning technology and yarn structure of slubby yarn,siro spinning,segment color yarn spinning and so on,the design of semi-slubby AB yarn were put forward.Three kinds of fibers including polyimide,cashmere and viscose were combined.Two kinds of roving like polyimide/viscose 80/20 and viscose/cashmere 60/40 were designed by functions and color configuration.Semi-slubby AB yarn was successfully developed on the spinning frame modified with segment color spinning and siro condensed spinning.The warmth retention property of the fabric was excellent.It is considered that the design development requirement of functional fancy yarn products can be satisfied by the reasonable process design of polyimide viscose cashmere semi-slubby AB yarn.

关 键 词：聚酰亚胺 山羊绒 粘胶 纱线结构 半竹节AB纱 段彩纱 工艺设计 

分 类 号：TS104.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]