撇胸与反撇胸技术在合体女西服中的运用  

Forward and reverse rotation of front panel techniquesapplication in body-fitting women’s suit and its composite nonwovens

作　　者：汤瑞昌[1] Tang Ruichang(Guangdong Polytechnic,Foshan 528000,China)

机构地区：[1]广东职业技术学院,广东佛山528000

出　　处：《纺织报告》2020年第7期55-57,共3页

摘　　要：文章以研究合体女西服领面的服贴性为目的,通过省道转移的方式,对女西服的衣身结构进行撇胸与反撇胸的纸样技术处理,在保证衣身长度、围度、样衣采用的面料以及实验人员等因素不变的前提下,采用服装CAD进行制版并制作完成样衣。通过对实物样衣进行定量定性的评价,表明撇胸与反撇胸均能影响驳领领面的服贴性,采用撇胸技术,需作工艺归拢处理;采用反撇胸技术,则需做好胸省分散处理。For the purpose of studying the attachment of the collar surface of the suit,the paper deals with the pattern technology of skimming and reverse skimming of the body structure of the suit by means of provincial road transfer.On the premise of ensuring the length,circumference,fabric and experimenter of the suit,the garment CAD is used to make and complete the sample coat.Through the quantitative and qualitative evaluation of the physical sample clothing,it shows that both skimming and back skimming can affect the adhesion of the collar surface,using skimming technique,it is necessary to make the process to close up,and to adopt the reverse skimming technique,it is necessary to do a good job of dispersing the chest and province.

关 键 词：服贴 省道转移 撇胸 反撇胸 合体女西服 

分 类 号：TS135.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]