臀围松量对女裤裆部特征的影响分析与模型构建  

Influence of hip ease allowance on crotch characteristics of women’s trousers and model construction

作　　者：谢勇 吴秋英 肖劲蓉 叶永敏 XIE Yong;WU Qiuying;XIAO Jinrong;YE Yongmin(College of Art and Design,Wuyi University,Jiangmen 529020,China)

机构地区：[1]五邑大学艺术设计学院,广东江门529020

出　　处：《丝绸》2020年第11期41-45,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：广东省青年创新人才项目(2017KQNCX202);五邑大学青年科研基金项目(2016sk05);五邑大学本科教学质量与教学改革工程建设项目(JX2018037)。

摘　　要：为研究臀围松量变化对女裤裆部结构特征的影响,文章选取表征裆部结构特征的裆宽、裆深及裆弯松量三个参数进行研究。利用三维虚拟服装设计软件CLO 3D完成虚拟试穿并提取表征裆部结构特征的参数进行分析,研究表明:平面样板的裆宽与臀围松量呈正线性相关,着装状态下的立体裆宽与臀围松量呈负相关;着装状态下的立体裆深与臀围松量呈正相关,且随着臀围松量的增大不断趋近于平面样板的立裆深;臀围松量对裆弯松量的分布有很大影响,主要集中在臀围线下区域,在270°时裆弯松量达到最大值。研究可为裤装样板的优化设计提供参考。In order to study the influence of hip ease allowance variation on crotch characteristics of women’s trousers,the width,depth and crotch ease allowance were selected as the characteristic parameters.The virtual fitting was completed by CLO 3D software and the crotch characteristic parameters were extracted and analyzed.The results showed that the pattern crotch width had a positive linear correlation with the hip ease allowance,while the 3D crotch width had a negative correlation with the hip ease allowance in dressing state.A positive correlation existed between the hip ease allowance and the crotch depth in dressing state,and with the increase of the hip ease allowance,the crotch depth in dressing state tended to approach the pattern crotch depth.The hip ease allowance had a great effect on the distribution of the crotch interval,and mainly concentrated below the hip line area.Moreover,the maximum crotch ease allowance appeared at 270°.The research can provide the reference for the optimized design of trousers pattern.

关 键 词：裤装 放松量 裆部结构 CLO 3D 模型 臀围 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]