越剧戏服中刺绣元素的研究  

Study on embroidery elements in Shaoxing opera costumes

作　　者：陈淑聪[1] 汪斌 CHEN Shucong;WANG Bin(Nanhu College,Jiaxing University,Jiaxing 314000,China)

机构地区：[1]嘉兴学院南湖学院,浙江嘉兴314000

出　　处：《染整技术》2020年第11期50-56,共7页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

基　　金：浙江省社会科学界联合会研究课题成果(2021N123)。

摘　　要：以绍兴嵊州越剧博物馆的戏服为研究对象,通过实地考察和查阅相关地方市志以及大量的优秀越剧视频材料,探讨了越剧戏服中刺绣元素的艺术特征、人文内涵及其与京剧戏服中刺绣元素的差异。研究结果表明:越剧戏服因为受江南水乡民俗民风以及刺绣艺术的影响在色彩上采用大量的中间色,呈现出清新雅致、雅淡细腻的风格特征;图案布局上多以边花、角花、暗花等形式出现,呈现简练、集中、素净的风格特征;刺绣工艺大多采用多套色绣,并以勾金、勾银绣增加戏服的华丽感。最后剖析越剧服饰文化内涵及其传承创新途径,对越剧服饰中的刺绣元素进行全面探究,旨在更好地传承、发扬越剧服饰文化。Taking the costumes in the Shaoxing Opera Museum in Shengzhou,Shaoxing as the research object,through on-the-spot investigation and consulting the related local chronicles as well as a large number of excellent Shaoxing opera video materials,the artistic features,humanistic connotations and differences between Shaoxing opera costumes and other costumes were analyzed and discussed.The research showed that because of the influence of the folk embroidery art in the south of the Yangtze River,Shaoxing opera costumes adopt a large number of intermediate colors in color,presenting a fresh and elegant style with elegant and delicate features.The patterns appear in the form of lace,angular flower,dark flower,etc.,presenting the succinct,the concentration,the plain pure style characteristic.Most of the embroidery techniques use multi color embroidery,and hook gold and silver embroidery to increase the gorgeous sense of costumes.Finally,it analyzes the cultural connotation,inheritance and innovation ways of Shaoxing opera costumes,and makes a comprehensive inquiry into embroidery elements in Shaoxing opera costumes,aiming at better inheriting and developing the costumes culture of Shaoxing opera.

关 键 词：越剧 戏服 刺绣 

分 类 号：TS941.7[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]