线圈长度对空气层提花针织物外观效果及其性能的影响  

Influence of loop length on appearance and properties of air jacquard knitting fabric

作　　者：裘玉英[1] QIU Yuying(College of Art Design,Jiaxing University,Jiaxing,Zhejiang 314001,China)

机构地区：[1]嘉兴学院设计学院,浙江嘉兴314001

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2020年第12期10-13,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：嘉兴学院重大横向课题(00619030)。

摘　　要：为研究线圈长度对针织物外观和性能的影响规律,以2色空气层提花组织为例,通过改变其中一种纱线的线圈长度,设计和编织了4种空气层提花织物,并对其外观效果进行比较和分析,测试织物的厚度、面密度、透气性、起毛起球性和强力等性能,对线圈长度与织物性能进行相关性分析。结果表明:随着线圈长度的增加,空气层提花织物的凸起效果更加明显;线圈长度与织物厚度不呈线性相关,与织物面密度、透气性呈高度正相关,与织物纵向和横向断裂强力呈高度负相关;随着线圈长度的增加,织物厚度、面密度和透气性增加,纵向和横向断裂强力减小,抗起毛起球性变差。可为针织面料设计和毛衫设计提供一定的参考。In order to study the effect of loop length on the appearance and properties of knitted fabrics,two-color net jacquard was taken as an example,and four net jacquard fabrics were designed and knitted with the same yarn by changing loop length of one kind of yarn.Their appearance was compared and analyzed,and the thickness,areal density,air permeability,pilling and breaking strength were tested and analyzed.The results show that emboss effect of net jacquard are more obvious with increase of loop length.The loop length is not linear correlated with thickness but is highly positive correlated with areal density and air permeability,and is highly negative correlated with course breaking strength and wale breaking strength.With the increase of loop length,thickness,areal density and air permeability,breaking strength decrease both in wale and course direction,and pilling resistance is getting worse,which can provide some guidance for the design of knitted fabric and sweater.

关 键 词：空气层提花 外观效果 性能测试 相关性分析 

分 类 号：TS184.13[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]