自组装高异形度再生聚酯纤维及织物的研发  

Research and development of self-assembled high profile recycled polyester fibers and fabrics

作　　者：郝克倩 胡红梅 吕媛媛 张瀚誉 王学利 俞建勇 陈浩 Hao Keqian;Hu Hongmei;Lyu Yuanyuan;Zhang Hanyu;Wang Xueli;Yu Jianyong;Chen Hao(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Textile Technology Innovation Center,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Haiyan Haili Environmental Protection Fiber Co.,Ltd.,Jiaxing 314300,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620 [2]东华大学纺织科技创新中心,上海201620 [3]海盐海利环保纤维有限公司,嘉兴314300

出　　处：《产业用纺织品》2020年第10期11-18,共8页Technical Textiles

基　　金：国家重点研发计划再生聚酯纤维高效制备技术(2016YFB0302900)。

摘　　要：以再生聚酯切片为原料,利用设计的3个独立叶片组成的自组装喷丝板,纺制三叶形再生聚酯纤维。研究纺丝工艺中侧吹风风速和牵伸倍数对三叶形和三角形再生聚酯纤维性能的影响,比较三叶形、三角形、圆形再生聚酯纤维织物性能。结果表明:所得三叶形再生聚酯纤维异形度高于三角形再生聚酯纤维;侧吹风风速增加,则三叶形再生聚酯纤维的横截面异形度略有增加,横截面异形度不匀率先减少后增加,断裂强度先增大后减小,断裂伸长率增大,取向度减小;牵伸倍数增大,则三叶形再生聚酯纤维的横截面异形度也略有增加,横截面异形度不均匀性改善,纤维的断裂强度增加,断裂伸长率减小,取向度增加;三叶形再生聚酯纤维织物光泽性好,反射光线均匀、柔和,不刺眼,其接触暖感、压缩性能、剪切性能、透气性能等都是三种织物中最好的,三角形再生聚酯纤维织物次之,圆形再生聚酯纤维织物最差。Using recycled polyester chips as raw materials,the trifoliate recycled polyester fibers were spun by using self-assembled spinneret composed of three independent blades.The effects of side wind speed and draft ratio on the properties of trifoliate and triangular recycled polyester fibers in spinning process were studied.And the properties of trifoliate,triangular and round recycled polyester fabrics were compared.The results showed that,the profile degree of the trifoliate recycled polyester fibers was higher than that of the triangular recycled polyester fibers.When the side wind speed increased,the cross-section profile degree of trifoliate recycled polyester fibers increased slightly,the irregularity of cross section profile decreased first and then increased,the breaking strength increased first and then decreased,the elongation at break increased,and the orientation decreased.When the drafting times increased,the cross-section profile degree of trifoliate recycled polyester fibers also increased slightly,the irregularity of cross section profile improved,the breaking strength increased,the elongation at break decreased,and the orientation increased.The trifoliate recycled polyester fabric had good luster,uniform and soft light reflection,non-dazzling,and its touch warm sense,compression,shear and air permeability were the best among three kinds of fabrics,followed by the triangular and the circular recycled polyester fabrics.

关 键 词：三叶形 自组装喷丝板 再生聚酯纤维 异形度 侧吹风风速 牵伸倍数 光泽度 接触冷暖感 

分 类 号：TS154.7[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计] TS156[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]