翻驳领及分领座结构设计研究  

Research on the Structural Design of Lapel Collar and Branch Collar

作　　者：朱蕾[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江纺织服装职业技术学院时装学院

出　　处：《纺织导报》2020年第12期69-71,共3页China Textile Leader

摘　　要：文章以160/84A标准女体基础领圈线为基准,探讨了一种简单直观的翻驳领结构设计方法。通过分析影响翻驳领合体性的相关因素,采用分割领座的处理方法,使领子的翻折线更贴合颈部, 利用3D虚拟实验验证方法的合理性,得出适合不同贴体程度衣领在结构设计中其倾斜角的取值范围,为衣领结构优化设计提供理论基础。Based on the 160/84A Standard Female Basic Collar Line,this paper discusses a simple and intuitive design method of lapel collar structure.Through the analysis of the factors affecting the fit of lapel collar,the method of dividing the collar seat is adopted to make the collar fold line more fit the neck.At the same time,the rationality of this method is verified by 3D virtual experiment,and the value range of the inclined angle of collar with different body-fitted degree is obtained,which provides a theoretical basis for the optimum design of collar structure.

关 键 词：翻驳领 分领座 翻折线缩短量 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]