吸湿凉爽羊毛纬编织物开发与性能研究  

Development and Properties of Moisture Absorption and Cool-feel Wool Weft Knitted Fabrics

作　　者：于拥军[1,2] 孟沙沙 张佩华 Yu Yongjun;Meng Shasha;Zhang Peihua(Jiangsu Lianfa Textile Co.,Ltd.,Nantong,Jiangsu 226600,China;Jiangsu Lianfa Institute of Advanced Textile Technology,Nantong,Jiangsu 226600,China;College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏联发纺织股份有限公司,江苏南通226600 [2]江苏联发高端纺织技术研究院,江苏南通226600 [3]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620

出　　处：《针织工业》2020年第12期24-26,共3页Knitting Industries

基　　金：国家重点研发计划资助(2016YFB0303300)。

摘　　要：选用7.8tex/24f(70D/24f)的十字形凉感锦纶长丝和16.7tex(60Nm)的丝光羊毛纱线,在机号为24针/25.4mm的德乐UP472型双面圆纬机上,编织3种具有吸湿凉爽效应的双层集圈组织织物。详细介绍织物的设计思路、编织工艺和染整工艺,并测试织物的力学性能、抗起毛起球性、悬垂性、刚柔性、透气性、吸湿性、速干性、热传递性和接触凉感功能。结果表明,开发的织物手感柔软,具有良好的吸湿和凉感功能,力学性能及抗起毛起球等性能符合国家标准要求,适宜制备春夏季针织内衣和休闲服装。Three kinds of double-layer tuck stitch knitted fabrics with moisture absorption and cooling effect were knitted on G24 double-sided circular weft knitting machine by using 7.8 tex/24 f(70 D/24 f)cross-shaped cool nylon filament and 16.7 tex(60 Nm)mercerized wool yarn.The design idea,knitting process and dyeing and finishing process of the fabric were introduced in detail,and the mechanical properties,pilling resistance,drapability,rigidity and flexibility,air permeability,moisture absorption,quick drying,thermal transmission and contact coolfeel of the fabric were tested.The results show that the developed fabric has soft handle,good moisture absorption and cool-feel,and its mechanical properties and anti-pilling properties meet the requirements of national standards,which is suitable for the preparation of knitted underwear and casual clothing in spring and summer.

关 键 词：吸湿凉爽功能 纬编织物 丝光羊毛 十字形凉感锦纶长丝 双面集圈组织 性能测试 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]