纯棉色织仿丝绸提花面料的设计与生产  

Design and production of cotton yarn-dyed imitation silk jacquard fabric

作　　者：马顺彬 MA Shunbin(Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong 226007,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏工程职业技术学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2020年第12期34-36,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：2017年度江苏高校“青蓝工程”[苏教师(2017)15号];江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心[苏政办发2014(22)号]。

摘　　要：设计与生产了纯棉色织仿丝绸提花面料。络简工序采用“小张力、低车速”的工艺原则;整经工序采用“中等张力、中等车速”的工艺原则;浆纱工序采用“高浓度、低黏度、高温高压、低张力、小伸长、重浸透兼顾被覆、中等车速、回潮适中、均匀卷绕、勤巡回”的工艺原则;织造工序采用“低车速早开口、迟引纬高后梁、大张力”的工艺原则;轧光整理要控制好车速、温度和线压强,以获得良好的仿丝绸效果。生产的纯棉色织仿丝绸提花面料表面光滑如绸,手感细腻柔软,附加价值高,且生产效率达到91%,入库一等品率达到99%。The design and production key technology of a kind of cotton yarn-dyed imitation silk jacquard fabric is summarized.The principle of winding is“small tension,low speed”;the principle of warping is“medium tension,middle speed”;the principle of sizing is“high concentration,low viscosity,high temperature and high pressure,low tension,small elongation,heavy penetration and covering,middle speed,moderate regain,uniform winding,regular tour”;the principle of weaving is“low speed,early opening time,late weft insertion,high rear beam,high tension”.In order to obtain a good silk-like effect,calender finishing must have a good control on the speed,temperature and line pressure.The surface of the product is as smooth as silk,the texture is delicate and soft,and the added value is high with the production efficiency up to 91%and the first grade product rate up to 99%.

关 键 词：棉织物 色织物 提花面料 仿丝绸 工艺参数 措施 

分 类 号：TS116[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]