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作 者:左亚君 王蕾 高卫东 ZUO Yajun;WANG Lei;GAO Weidong(Jiangnan University,Wuxi,214122,China)
机构地区:[1]江南大学,江苏无锡214122
出 处:《棉纺织技术》2021年第1期30-33,共4页Cotton Textile Technology
基 金:国家重点研发计划(2017YFB0309200);生态纺织教育部重点实验室且标注项目(JUSRP52007A)。
摘 要:研究纱线合股数和织物组织对织物保形性能的影响。采用细度相同的9.6 tex单纱和4.8 tex×2、3.2 tex×3和2.4 tex×4股线,以相同经纬密分别制织成平纹、二上二下方平、二上二下左斜纹组织的织物。测试了各织物的折皱回复性,采用人工主观评价和客观评价方法评价了织物平整度。结果表明:随着纱线合股数的增加,织物的折皱回复性变差,平纹双股线织物折皱回复性最好,方平织物中单纱和双股线织物折皱回复性相近,斜纹单纱织物的折皱回复性好于其他织物;平纹和方平单纱织物的平整度等级高于股线织物,纱线合股数对斜纹织物的平整度无明显影响;织物组织结构交织点少、浮线长,结构越松散,其保形性越好。认为:纱线合股数和织物组织对织物保形性具有一定影响。The influence of ply number and fabric textures on fabric conformality were studied.Same fineness of 9.6 tex single yarn,4.8 tex×2 ply,3.2 tex×3 ply and 2.4 tex×4 ply were used.Plain woven fabric,two-up twodown basket woven fabric,two-up two-down left twill fabric were woven with the same warp&weft density.The crease recovery of each fabric was tested.Fabric smoothness was tested by both manual subjective assessment and objective evaluation method.The test results showed that the fabric crease recovery was worse as the increase of ply number.The crease recovery of plain woven with two-ply was the best.The crease recoveries of basket fabric with single yarn and two ply were close.The crease recovery of twill with single yarn was better than that of other fabrics.The smoothness grades of plain woven fabric and basket fabric with single yarn were higher than those of other ply fabric.The ply number had no influence on the smoothness of twill fabrics.The conformality of fabrics whose texture with less interviewing points,longer floating,looser structure was the better.It is considered that ply number and fabric texture have a certain influence on fabric conformality.
关 键 词:纱线 合股数 织物组织 折皱回复性 平整度 保形性
分 类 号:TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]
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