长绒棉桑皮纤维混纺段染色织面料的开发  

Development of Long-staple Cotton Mulberry Fiber Blended Segement Dyed Woven Fabric

作　　者：马倩[1] 王可[1] 王曙东[1] 张宽长 王梦圆 MA Qian;WANG Ke;WANG Shudong;ZHANG Kuanchang;WANG Mengyuan(Yancheng Polytechnic College,Yancheng,224005,China)

机构地区：[1]盐城工业职业技术学院,江苏盐城224005

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2021年第1期64-68,共5页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：江苏省产学研合作项目(BY2020152,BY2020153);江苏高校青蓝工程(苏教师〔2018〕12号,苏教师〔2019〕3号);江苏省高等职业教育产教深度融合集成平台(苏教职函〔2019〕26号);江苏省大学生实践创新训练计划(202013752037T,202013752022Y);盐城工业职业技术学院校级科研课题(YGYKT-03,ygy1804)。

摘　　要：探讨长绒棉桑皮纤维混纺段染色织面料的开发技术。介绍了经纬纱原料性能、色纱排列、织物组织和纺纱关键技术。单色纱和竹节纱染色时防止层差和色花产生;段染纱染色时防止白色色节沾污和泳移;整经保证片纱张力均匀;浆纱以贴伏毛羽为主;织造适当提高上机张力;对织物进行正反两面烧毛和柔软整理。测试结果表明:开发的面料对大肠杆菌、金黄色葡萄球菌的抑菌率分别为(67.4±3.6)%、(62.9±4.2)%。认为:开发的面料抗菌性能优于同规格苎麻棉混纺段染色织面料,可用于高档休闲衬衫面料。Development technology of long-staple cotton mulberry fiber blended segement dyed woven fabric was discussed.Material properties of warp and weft,arrangement of colored yarn,weaves and key spinning technologies were introduced.Layer difference and color patterns were prevented when single colored yarn and slub yarn were dyed.White color neps were prevented from staining and migrating when segement dyed yarns were dyed.Yarn tension was ensured uniform in warping process.Sizing yarns were mainly appressed hairiness.Loom tension was increased properly in weaving process.Fabric was singed and softened on both sides.The test results showed that antibacterial rates of the developed fabric against escherichia coli and staphylococcus aureus were(67.4±3.6)%and(62.9±4.2)%respectively.It is considered that antibacterial property of the developed fabric is better than the same specification ramie cotton blended segement dyed woven fabric,which can be used for top casual shirt fabrics.

关 键 词：桑皮纤维 长绒棉 段染纱 竹节纱 整经 浆纱 剑杆织机 

分 类 号：TS106.51[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]