女装连身型翻驳领的纸样设计研究  

Research on pattern of one-piece lapel for women′s wears

作　　者：刘锋 古皎霞 吴康羽 卢致文 LIU Feng;GU Jiaoxia;WU Kangyu;LU Zhiwen(College of Textile Engineering,Taiyuan University of Technology,Jinzhong,Shanxi,030600,China)

机构地区：[1]太原理工大学轻纺工程学院,山西晋中030600

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2021年第1期57-60,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：山西省软科学研究项目(2018041013-5);山西省应用基础研究计划项目(201901D211094)。

摘　　要：女式正装外套是目前女装高级定制的主要品类之一,基于着装场合要求,一般风格庄重、造型合体、款式简洁。局部的创意性设计可为女式正装增添新意,连身型翻驳领以领型为设计点,保留常规翻驳领的主要外观特征,结合叠裥设计将衣身与驳领融为一体,使领型呈现出特有的效果。为实现驳头与衣身的连续结构,在常规翻驳领结构的基础上,研究相关纸样设计原理,明确设计思路,以戗驳领为例,详细说明连身型翻驳领的纸样设计方法,并列举了同类领型的拓展款式及其纸样,以期为翻驳领的创新设计提供参考,为版型设计人员提供借鉴。At present,women′s formal coat is one of the main categories of women′s haute couture.Based on the requirements of dressing occasion,most of them use formfitting and concise design to highlight the formal style.Partial creative designing on the formal coat can make it novel.The one-piece lapel design focusing on collar shape,remained the main appearance features of the conventional lapel collar and combined with the tuck design to give the collar a unique appearance.To realize the continuous structure of the lapel and garment piece,the principle of pattern design was discussed based on the conventional lapel structure.Furthermore,the approach of pattern design was demonstrated through the example of peak lapel,and the extended styles and patterns in the same kind of collars were listed.The research provides a reference to the lapel novel design,and it could be helpful for pattern designer.

关 键 词：连身型翻驳领 女式正装 纸样设计 切展法 叠裥 

分 类 号：TS941.[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]