传统旗袍的手缝边饰工艺与设计技法  

Process and design technique of hand sewn edge decoration of traditional cheongsam

作　　者：陆洁[1] LU Jie(School of Textile and Clothing and Art and Media,Suzhou Institute of Trade&Commerce,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215009,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州经贸职业技术学院纺织服装与艺术传媒学院,江苏苏州215009

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2021年第1期61-65,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：教育部职业教育专业教学资源库立项建设项目(2019-33);江苏省高等职业教育高水平骨干专业建设项目(苏教高〔2017〕17号)。

摘　　要：为了更好地说明手缝边饰工艺与设计在现代服装中具有的装饰借鉴作用,针对手缝边饰工艺与设计是传统旗袍中的重要环节且容易被忽略的这一问题,探讨手缝制作针法和设计思路的一般规律。通过考察法归纳手缝边饰工艺的类型特征和制作技法,得出传统工艺勾勒平面服装轮廓的独特手法。手缝边饰设计需结合面料色彩与质地,是突出装饰工艺特点的一种思维方式,对激发现代设计灵感有重要的现实意义。研究表明,手缝边饰工艺与设计是传统旗袍文化内涵在现代服装设计和应用中的具体体现。Hand sewing edge decoration technology and design was an important link in traditional cheongsam,but it′s easy to dismiss.In order to better illustrate the decorative reference function of hand sewing edge decoration technology and design in modern clothing,this paper discusses the general rules of hand stitch method and design ideas.Based on the investigation,the type characteristics and manufacturing techniques of the edge decoration process were summarized,the unique method of drawing the outline of the plane clothing by the traditional technology was presented;the usage records of the hand sewing method further explained the flexible and changeable process details of the traditional cheongsam.The edge decoration design should be combined with fabric color and texture,which was a way of thinking to highlight the characteristics of decoration technology and has important practical significance to stimulate modern design inspiration.The process of research and analysis shows that the process and design of hand sewn edge decoration is the concrete embodiment of the cultural connotation of traditional cheongsam in modern fashion design and application.

关 键 词：传统旗袍 手缝 边饰工艺 边饰设计 

分 类 号：TS941.[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]