基于虚拟仿真系统的翻驳领结构的数字化修正  

Digital modification of lapel structure based on virtual simulation system

作　　者：朱庆艳 杨亚瑞 柯舒文 曹原 ZHU Qingyan;YANG Yarui;KE Shuwen;CAO Yuan(Nanhu College,Jiaxing University,Jiaxing 314001,China;Keyi College of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Shaoxing 312300,China)

机构地区：[1]嘉兴学院南湖学院,浙江嘉兴314001 [2]浙江理工大学科技与艺术学院,浙江绍兴312300

出　　处：《染整技术》2021年第1期37-40,44,共5页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

基　　金：2020年嘉兴学院南湖学院一般科研项目(N41472001-YB13);2019年嘉兴学院南湖学院课堂教学改革项目(N414541904)。

摘　　要：翻驳领由翻领和驳领两部分组成。翻驳领的造型变化需要遵循其内在规律,旨在表现程式之美。影响翻驳领造型的因素很多,在结构上翻折松量值、倒伏量、驳口线斜率、领座高度和翻领宽度的差值等均影响外观质量。引入CLO3D数字化设计系统对西装驳领结构的整体美观度、驳领平整度、翻领圆顺度、翻领内口贴合度和翻领外口贴合度进行评价,并结合客观评价中服装压力值、服装透视和服装接触点等角度进行分析,根据分析结果进行西装驳领结构的数字化修改及验证。Lapel collar was composed of lapel collar and lapel collar.The shape change of lapel collar needed to follow its internal law,aiming to show the beauty of the program.There were many factors affecting the shape of lapel collar,such as fold loose value,lodging amount,lapel line slope,collar seat height and lapel width.CLO3D digital design system was introduced to evaluate the overall aesthetics,lapel flatness,lapel roundness,lapel inner fit and lapel outer fit.Combined with the objective evaluation of clothing pressure value,clothing perspective and clothing contact point,the digital modification of suit lapel structure was carried out according to the analysis results and verification.

关 键 词：翻驳领 虚拟仿真 服装结构 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]