梨形体型女性的身体认知与职业装款式偏好研究  

Body Cognition and Preference of Professional Wear Design for Pear-shaped Body Women

作　　者：张莉 刘雨晨 ZHANG Li;LIU Yuchen(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2020年第6期68-74,共7页Fashion Guide

摘　　要：[研究意义]随着网络服装定制的发展,采用梨型体型等大众熟悉的人体分类方式,可以简化人体体型特征和服装合体性问题,将服装设计重点关注到与体型相关的设计要素变化,满足高效率的网络定制服装设计和搭配需求。[研究方法]文章以梨形体型女性为研究对象,结合身体认知中各部位满意度和职业装款式偏好展开问卷调查研究,进行关联分析,进一步讨论具体的服装款式设计方法。[研究结果与结论]研究认为:自我认知为梨形体型的女性对上半身和腰部的身体评价满意度较高,对下半身腹、臀、胯、腿部位的满意度较低,梨形体型的分类标准可以结合定量化的人体数据指标,如肩宽/臀宽、臀宽/身高、胸围/臀围、腰围/臀围、腿根围/身高等指标进行分析。适合梨形体型女性的职业装款式具有明显的偏向性,定制设计时需要增加上身设计分量而弱化下身分量感,采用强调优势部位的设计时适合多露出颈部、肩、臂部位,采用视觉修正的设计需要扩展肩宽并缩减臀宽,腰部加装饰性细节而凸显腰线,并需要对目前常用的裤子、半身裙成品规格进行调整。With the development of online clothing customization,the familiar human body classification methods,such as pearshape body,can simplify the body shape characteristics and clothing fitness,and focus on the changes of design elements related to body shape in clothing design,so as to meet the high-efficiency online customized clothing design and collocation requirements.This paper takes pear-shaped women as the research target,conducts a questionnaire survey based on the satisfaction of various parts of body cognition and the preference of professional women's wear,and analysis of the design method of specific clothing details.According to the research,women with self-perceived pear-shaped body are more satisfied with the body evaluation of upper body and waist,while less satisfied with the body evaluation of abdomen,hip,crotch and legs.The judgment of pear-shaped body type should be combined with more quantitative body data,such as shoulder width/hip width,hip width/height,best/hip,waist/hip,leg root circumference/height,etc.The style of professional women's wear for pear-shaped body has obvious preference,custom design with emphasis is suitable for exposing more neck,shoulders and arms,design with visual correction need to extend shoulder width and reduce hip width,or adds decorative details to highlight the waistline and adjusts the product specification sizes with pants and skirts.

关 键 词：梨形体型 职业女装 身体认知 网络服装定制 设计偏好 

分 类 号：TS941.73[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]