经起花色织产品在多臂织机上的开发  

Development of Figured Warp Colored Products on Dobby Loom

作　　者：张志颖 唐宇辰 宋开梅 张怡[1] 眭建华[1] ZHANG Zhiying;TANG Yuchen;SONG Kaimei;ZHANG Yi;SUI Jianhua(Soochow University,Suzhou,215006,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学,江苏苏州215006

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2021年第2期43-48,共6页Cotton Textile Technology

摘　　要：探讨在多臂织机上开发经起花色织产品的方法。基于多臂织造条件,研究了开发经起花色织物的纱线配置、构图设计、组织设计、上机图绘制等技术要点。在16页综的电子多臂剑杆织机上,开发了4个不同特色的经起花色织新产品。指出:花经可根据构图要求设计为全幅均匀分布和嵌条分布;地组织可以是单层组织也可以配置双层组织;花经与地经的色彩对比、色彩搭配决定织物的视觉效果。认为:开发的织物可以用于高档男女西服、休闲面料等。Development of figured warp colored products on dobby loom was discussed.Based on dobby weaving condition,technology key points of yarn configuration,composition design,weave design and looming drafting of figured warp colored fabric were studied.On 16 heddle electronic dobby rapier loom,4 new figured warp colored products with different characteristics were developed.It was pointed out that figured warp could be designed to be uniformly distributed across entire width and strip distribution according to composition requirements.Ground weave could be single-layer structure or double-layer structure.Visual effect of fabric was determined by color contrast and color matching of figured warp and ground warp.It is considered that the developed fabric can be used for high-end men's&women's suits and casual fabric.

关 键 词：经起花织物 组织设计 多臂织机 色纱排列 表里换层 色织物 新产品开发 

分 类 号：TS105.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]