绒毛混纺比和染色工艺对羊毛衫起毛起球性能的影响  

Effect of blending ratio of cashmere to wool and dyeing process on the pilling performance of sweater

作　　者：张悦 赵士毅 张梦涵 王进丽 田娟娟 付学燕 李美真[1] 陈香云[1] ZHANG Yue;ZHANG Menghan;WANG Jinli;TIAN Juanjuan;FU Xueyan;ZHAO Shiyi;LI Meizhen;CHEN Xiangyun(Inner Mongolia University of Technology,Hohhot 010051,China)

机构地区：[1]内蒙古工业大学,内蒙古呼和浩特010051

出　　处：《染整技术》2021年第2期50-54,共5页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

基　　金：呼和浩特厅市产学研协同创新科技合作基金项目(产学研-2018-2)。

摘　　要：针对毛绒针织物穿着过程中容易起球的问题,研究了羊毛衫、羊绒衫的起球过程。总结出了在箱式起球条件下织物表面毛球个数、毛球质量随时间变化的规律:0~2 h内起毛起球增加较慢;超过2 h后起毛起球增加较快;羊绒衫开始起球的时间为1.0 h,毛球达到峰值的时间为4.0 h;羊毛衫开始起球的时间为1.5 h,毛球达到峰值的时间为4.5 h;羊毛衫起球程度要大于羊绒衫。探讨不同比例羊毛、羊绒混纺针织物的起毛起球性能,发现羊毛、羊绒混纺比在30∶70~40∶60时起球最严重。研究常用染色工艺对羊毛衫起球性能的影响,发现活性染料染色起球问题较严重,其次是弱酸性染料。For the problem that woolen knitted fabrics were easy to pilling during wearing,the pilling process of woolen sweaters and cashmere sweaters was studied.The hairball number on the fabric surface and the law of hairball weight changing with time under the condition of box pilling were summarized.The pilling and fuzzing increased slowly during 0~2 h,while it was more rapidly after 2 h.The pilling starting time of cashmere sweater was at 1.0 h,and the peak time was at 4.0 h.The pilling starting time of woolen sweater was at 1.5 h,and the peak time was at 4.5 h.The pilling degree of woolen sweater was higher than that of cashmere sweater.The pilling performance of wool cashmere blended knitted fabrics with different proportions were investigated,and the pilling degree was the most serious when the blend ratio of wool to cashmere was 30∶70~40∶60.The effect of commonly used dyeing process on the pilling performance of woolen sweaters was studied,which showed that the pilling problem caused by reactive dyes was more serious,followed by weak acid dyes.

关 键 词：羊毛 羊绒 混纺比 起毛起球性能 

分 类 号：TS106[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]