具有丝般光泽细旦高支高密Lyocell 面料的开发  

Development of Lyocell fabric with silky luster,fine denier,high count and high density

作　　者：仝晓婷 陈红霞 TONG Xiaoting;CHEN Hongxia(Jiangsu Goldsun Textile and Technology Co.Ltd.,Nantong 226000,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司,江苏南通226000

出　　处：《染整技术》2021年第2期55-58,63,共5页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

摘　　要：探讨了具有丝般光泽细旦高支高密Lyocell面料的设计思路及生产关键工艺。以淀粉浆料为主、丙烯酸酯浆料为辅的浆料配方,有效解决了浆纱分绞产生二次毛羽的问题。对纬纱进行上蜡处理,解决了织造纬纱产生二次毛羽的问题,并降低了高支高密织造出现纬缩圈疵点的概率。对比了聚乙烯柔软剂+免烫树脂整理、聚乙烯柔软剂整理、硅油柔软剂+免烫树脂整理、硅油柔软剂整理4种工艺,优先选择聚乙烯柔软剂+免烫树脂整理,面料具有更好的起毛起球性能、抗滑移性能和抗皱性能。采用细旦半交联Lyocell LF纤维纺制成高支纱线,结合八枚三飞缎纹组织高经密织造,可去除生产过程中产生的毛羽,优化面料手感,最终得到具有丝般光泽感的细旦高支高密Lyocell面料。The design ideas and key production processes of Lyocell fabric with silky luster,fine denier,high count and high density were discussed.Using starch as the main slurry and acrylic as the supplementary slurry formula could effectively solve the secondary hairiness caused by sizing.Waxing the weft yarns solved the problem of secondary hairiness caused by weaving weft yarns,and reduced the probability of weft shrinkage in high count and high density weaving.The four processes of polyethylene softener+non-iron resin finishing,polyethylene softener finishing,silicone oil softener+noniron resin finishing and silicone oil softener finishing were compared.Polyethylene softener+non-iron finishing was preferred,and the fabric had better anti-pilling performance,anti-slip performance and anti-wrinkle performance.Fine denier semi crosslinked Lyocell LF fiber was used to spin high count yarn,and eight pieces of three fly satin weave were used to weave high warp density yarn.The hairiness produced in the production process could be mainly removed,and the handle of the fabric could be optimized.Finally,fine denier high count and high density Lyocell fabric with silky luster could be obtained.

关 键 词：LYOCELL 高支高密 光泽 起毛起球 

分 类 号：TS105[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TS195.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]