革带变迁及文化符号学内涵研究(续)  

Changes of leather belt and connotation of cultural semiotics(Continued)

作　　者：孙湉 沈雷 SUN Tian;SHEN Lei(College of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《中国皮革》2021年第2期49-53,共5页China Leather

基　　金：2020年度教育部人文社会科学研究规划基金项目(20YJAZH087);教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目资助(19YJC760096);江苏省研究生科研与实践创新计划项目(KYCX19_1849)。

摘　　要：革带作为我国舆服志文化的重要组成部分,具有独特的符号象征内涵,同时传承至今。中国传统元素逐渐融入现代国际时尚设计及古装剧作创作中,在革带现代再设计中不难发现其包含符号象征性及形制错乱等现象。通过文献查阅及实地调研等方法,从符号学的角度对革带变迁及文化符号学内涵进行总结性研究,基于物质文化、制度文化、精神文化研究革带装饰造型以及纹饰背后的文化寓意及符号学象征。通过此研究,可更好地把握革带发展变化及符号学价值内涵的脉络,同时为今后融入中国传统元素的革带设计给予灵感及理论支撑。Leather belt, as an important part of the public service culture in China, has a unique symbolic connotation. At the same time, the traditional Chinese elements have been gradually integrated into modern international fashion design and ancient costume drama creation. It is not difficult to find the phenomenon of symbol symbolism and shape disorder in the modern redesign of leather belt. Through literature review and field research, the changes of leather belt and the connotation of cultural semiotics were summarized from the perspective of semiotics. Based on material culture, institutional culture and spiritual culture, the decorative modeling of leather belt and the cultural implication and semiotics behind the decoration were studied. Through this study, we can grasp the context of the development and changes of leather belt and the connotation of semiotics value. It provides inspiration and theoretical support for the future leather belt design integrating traditional Chinese elements as well.

关 键 词：革带 符号学内涵 形制变迁 制度文化 精神文化 

分 类 号：TS94[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]