刺绣抗起毛整理工艺研究  

Research on anti-pilling finishing process of embroidery

作　　者：李邦玉[1] 黄阳阳[2] 王月忠 翟清 LI Bangyu;HUANG Yangyang;WANG Yuezhong;ZHAI Qing(Applied Chemistry Laboratory,Suzhou Vocational University,Suzhou 215104,China;Institute of Applied Technology of Silk,Suzhou Vocational University,Suzhou 215104,China;Suzhou Xiuyantianxia Embroidery Technology Co.,Ltd.,Suzhou 215161,China;National Silk and GarmentProduct Quality Supervision and Inspection Center,Suzhou 215128,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州市职业大学应用化学研究室,江苏苏州215104 [2]苏州市职业大学丝绸应用技术研究所,江苏苏州215104 [3]苏州绣艳天下刺绣工艺有限公司,江苏苏州215161 [4]国家丝绸及服装产品质量监督检验中心,江苏苏州215128

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第2期14-19,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：苏州市科技计划项目(SS2019032,SS201742);苏州市职业大学食品安全与营养中心平台项目(201804000058)。

摘　　要：刺绣作为高档元素在服饰等家纺场景中的应用广泛,但是刺绣容易起毛的问题成为消费痛点。文章用毛笔蘸取水溶性聚合物整理剂,沿着刺绣图案纹路进行少量多次浸润,油膜纸覆盖刺绣表面,用熨斗熨烫进行固化处理。使用一段时间后的刺绣产品,可以采用皂荚胶等天然整理剂进行二次补强。结果表明,水溶性聚合物整理剂质量分数为0.6%时,绣品纤维表面形成包裹性状和透明度较好的膜,起毛程度降低。整理后的绣品手感良好、色差较小,底料无明显水渍污染。随洗涤次数增加,整理后绣品的抗起毛性能降低,可以采用0.2%的皂荚胶等进行二次加固整理,使得绣品抗起毛性得到一定程度恢复。As a high-end element,embroidery is widely used in clothing and other home textile scenarios,but the problem of easy pilling of embroidery has become a pain point in consumption.In this study,water-soluble polymer finishing agent was dipped with a writing brush,a small amount of infiltration was made along the lines of the embroidery pattern,and the surface of the embroidery was covered with oil film paper,which was ironed with an iron for curing.After being used for a period of time,embroidery products can be reinforced with natural finishing agents,for example,acacia gum.The results showed that when the mass fraction of water-soluble polymer finishing agent was 0.6%,a film with better wrapping properties and transparency would be formed on the surface of embroidery fiber,and the pilling degree was reduced.The finished embroidery had good hand feel,small color difference,and no obvious water stain pollution on substrate.As the number of washes increased,the anti-pilling performance of embroidery decreased.0.2%acacia glue,etc.can be used for secondary reinforcement.The anti-pilling performance of embroidery can be restored to a certain extent.

关 键 词：刺绣 抗起毛 整理工艺 高分子膜 洗涤 皂荚胶 

分 类 号：TS195.644[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]