双面水波纹大衣呢的设计与生产  

Design and production of double-faced water ripple woollen overcoating

作　　者：张志清[1] 王秀菊 桑曙光 ZHANG Zhiqing;WANG Xiuju;SANG Shuguang(Changzhou Textile Garment Institute,Changzhou,Jiangsu 213164,China;Zhongfangyuan International Trading Co.,Ltd.,Zhangjiagang,Jiangsu 215600,China)

机构地区：[1]常州纺织服装职业技术学院,江苏常州213164 [2]中纺源国际贸易有限公司,江苏张家港215600

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2021年第2期10-13,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：江苏省纺织服装数字创意公共技术(集成)平台项目(苏教职函[2019]26号);常州纺织服装职业技术学院技术纺织面料设计与制作研究室项目(52300021802);常州纺织服装职业技术学院美勒贝尔儿童羽绒服人体工学研究室项目(52300021801)。

摘　　要：为了突出水波纹双面大衣呢的水波纹效果,丰富大衣呢品种,从原料选用、纺纱、织物组织结构、后整理等方面优化设计方案及工艺参数。原料选用羊毛/山羊绒90/10,采用走锭纺纺纱,设计双层接结经接结组织合理布局接结点,使织物正面和背面的接结点都被主体纱浮长线遮盖。分析了水波纹效果的形成原理,得出:呢坯随含水量的增加,使刺果起毛阻力增大,呢坯表面的毛羽跟随液体的波动运动在呢坯表面产生了S型弯曲。对生产过程中如纱线捻度、刺果起毛含水量等的重点工艺问题给出了建议。In order to highlight the water ripple effect of the water ripple double-faced overcoat,and to enrich the varieties of overcoat,the design scheme and process parameters were optimized from the aspects of raw material selection,spinning,fabric structure and finishing.The wool/cashmere 90/10 was selected as a raw material and spun by mule spinning.The double-layer binding warp binding organization was designed to rationally arrange the joints so that the joints on the front and back of the fabric are floated by the main yarn cover up.The formation principle of the water ripple effect was analyzed.It is concluded that with the increase of water content of the cloth,the resistance of the teasel raising increases,and the hairiness on the surface of the cloth following the fluctuation of the liquid produces an S-shaped curve on the surface of the cloth.Suggestions are given for the key technological issues in the production process:yarn twist,thorn hair and moisture content,etc.

关 键 词：面料设计 双面大衣呢 接结组织 水波纹 

分 类 号：TS134.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]