传统客家蓝染的现代活化途径探索  

Activation pathway approach of traditional Hakka blue dye

作　　者：叶清珠 陈东生[3] 罗奋涛[1] 甘应进 YE Qingzhu;CHEN Dongsheng;LUO Fentao;GAN Yingjin(College of Art and Design,Sanming University,Sanming,Fujian 365004,China;Fujian Province University Engineering Research Center of Textile and Clothing,Fuzhou,Fujian 350108,China;Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology,Modern Engineering Technology Center,Nanchang,Jiangxi 330201,China)

机构地区：[1]三明学院艺术与设计学院,福建三明365004 [2]纺织服装福建省高校工程研究中心,福建福州350108 [3]江西服装学院现代工程技术中心,江西南昌330201

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2021年第2期23-27,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：纺织服装福建省高校工程研究中心开放基金(MJFZ17110)。

摘　　要：为了传扬我国重要的传统民间纺织印染工艺——客家蓝染,通过对客家蓝染的历史起源、客家蓝染衣饰文化、传统蓝染技艺、典型传统蓝染面料与服饰特征进行了阐述与归纳,进而探索出客家蓝染通过染材的拓展应用、色彩的多样化、套染工艺的应用、纹样的现代审美设计以及在现代服装、饰品、抗菌功能性纺织品的应用等途径实现现代活化,使传统客家蓝染文化与技艺得以传承与创新,最后展望了客家蓝染在现代生态纺织品以及文创产品中的广阔应用前景。For spreading the important traditional folk textile printing and dyeing technology,Hakka blue dyeing,it was expounded and summed up that the historical origin of Hakka blue dyeing,the traditional culture of Hakka blue dyeing,the technique of traditional blue dyeing,the typical traditional blue dyeing fabric and the characteristic of dress.Then this study explored the ways to realize the modern activation of Hakka blue dyeing,which included the expansion and application of dyeing materials,the diversification of color,the application of tainting technology,the modern aesthetic design of patterns and the application of modern clothing,ornaments and antibacterial functional textiles.The research helps the traditional Hakka blue dyeing culture and technology to be passed on and innovated.There is a wide application prospect of Hakka blue dye in modern ecological textiles and cultural and creative products.

关 键 词：客家蓝染 活化途径 色彩纹样 生态纺织品 

分 类 号：TS193[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]