涤纶仿毛织物暖感整理工艺  

Warm feeling finishing process of polyester wool-like fabric

作　　者：宋开梅 夏红霞 孙燕 眭建华[1] SONG Kaimei;XIA Hongxia;SUN Yan;SUI Jianhua(Soochow University,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215021,China;Toray Fiber Research Institute(China)Co.,Ltd.,Nantong,Jiangsu 226009,China;Wuxi Tianxiang Quality Technology Service Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214010,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学,江苏苏州215021 [2]东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司,江苏南通226009 [3]无锡天祥质量技术服务有限公司,江苏无锡214010

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2021年第2期33-36,共4页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为开发具有暖感的化纤仿毛面料,选用DVKARE、WL-503SG 2种整理剂处理4种不同规格涤纶长丝仿毛织物,测定织物clo值,通过正交试验优化整理工艺。测试优化工艺整理织物的悬垂性能、透气性能、表面摩擦因数、弯曲刚度、压缩比功,采用模糊综合评判整理对织物仿毛效果的影响。试验结果表明:DVKARE整理剂优化工艺为30 g/L、160℃、120 s,WL-503SG整理剂优化工艺为50 g/L、180℃、120 s。经纱188.9 dtex阳离子涤纶复合网络丝/纬纱166.7 dtex/(144 f)涤纶低弹丝织物(经密510根/(10 cm)、纬密280根/(10 cm))经DVKARE整理后的暖感和仿毛效果较好。In order to develop a chemical fiber wool-like fabric with a warm feeling,two finishing agents of DVKARE and WL-503SG were used to treat four different specifications of polyester filament wool-like fabrics,the clo value of the fabric was measured,and the finishing process was optimized through orthogonal experiments.The drape performance,air permeability,surface friction coefficient,bending stiffness and compression ratio work of the fabrics were tested and optimized,and the effect of finishing on the wool-like effect of the fabric was evaluated by fuzzy comprehensive evaluation.The test results show that the optimized process of DVKARE finishing agent is 30 g/L,160℃,120 s,and the optimized process of WL-503SG finishing agent is 50 g/L,180℃,120 s.The fabric constructed by 188.9 dtex cationic/polyester composite network yarn/weft 166.7 dtex/(144 f)polyester DTY yarn/warp density 510 roots/(10 cm)、weft density 280 roots/(10 cm),has a good warm feeling and wool-like effect after treated with DVKARE.

关 键 词：仿毛织物 暖感整理工艺 服用性能 仿毛效果 灰色近优综合评判 

分 类 号：TS195.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]