羊毛西装成衣染色复古水洗工艺与产品开发  

Retro washing process and product development related to wool suits dyeing

作　　者：王秀丽[1] 韩勇 王娟[1] 隋玉波 王雪 金晓[1] 战善良 WANG Xiuli;HAN Yong;WANG Juan;SUI Yubo;WANG Xue;JIN Xiao;ZHAN Shanliang(College of Engineering,Yantai Nanshan University,Yantai,Shandong 265706,China;Shandong Nanshan Zhishang Sci-Tech Co.,Ltd,Yantai,Shandong 265706,China)

机构地区：[1]烟台南山学院工学院,山东烟台265706 [2]山东南山智尚科技股份有限公司,山东烟台265706

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2021年第2期60-65,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：山东省本科高校教学改革研究项目(M2018X319)。

摘　　要：为解决羊毛西装无法反复水洗与形式单一的问题,将西装进行区别于传统方式的设计开发,即通过成衣染色的方式克服这一问题。针对一种耐水洗羊毛技术,对羊毛进行臭氧防缩处理,解决成衣染色及水洗过程中羊毛的毡缩问题。对羊毛西装成衣染色及水洗的工艺进行研究,通过实验得出工艺中涉及的染料、温度、时间、浴比、酸碱度等参数的具体数据,染出具有复古风格的休闲羊毛西装产品。结果表明:羊毛经过臭氧防缩处理后可进行反复水洗,该羊毛西装采用创新半里工艺及无垫肩无衬料的设计。水洗后的羊毛西装具有复古休闲的效果,增加了羊毛西装的品种,拓宽了西装个性化定制产品的生产线,为企业带来较好的经济效益,可为羊毛西装成衣染色复古水洗生产实践提供技术参考。To solve the problem that the wool suit cannot be washed repeatedly and the form is single,the suit is designed and developed differently from the traditional way,that is,the clothing is dyed to overcome this problem.A washable wool technology was developed in this paper,the wool was treated with ozone shrink-proof technology by experimental and data analysis method to solve the problem of felting in the process of garment dyeing and washing.The dyeing and washing process of wool suits was studied and the specific data of dye,including temperature,time,bath ratio,pH value and other parameters involved in the process through experiments were obtained,so as to produce leisure wool suits with vintage style.The wool suit was designed with innovative half-lining technology and no shoulder pad and no lining material.The results show that the wool can be washed repeatedly after ozone shrink-proof treatment,after washing the wool suits have the effect of vintage and leisure style,the variety of wool suits is increased,the production line of tailored suits are broadened and bring better economic benefits to the enterprise,which provide technical reference for the production practice of wool suit dyeing and retro washing.

关 键 词：羊毛西装 成衣染色 复古水洗 臭氧防缩处理 个性化定制 

分 类 号：TS193.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]