织物图案与三通道转杯纺段彩纱的双向设计  

Bidirectional Design of Fabric Pattern and Three-channel Rotor Spinning Segement Colored Yarn

作　　者：潘博 杨瑞华[1] PAN Bo;YANG Ruihua(Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles(Jiangnan University),Ministry of Education,Wuxi,214122,China)

机构地区：[1]生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学),江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2021年第3期50-54,共5页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：江苏省自然科学基金面上项目(BK20181350);国家自然科学基金青年基金项目(51403085)。

摘　　要：为了解决彩色纺织品的染色品种繁多、用水多、污染严重的现象,提出织物图案与三通道转杯纺段彩纱色彩双向设计的新方法。通过在三通道转杯纺纱机上在线调控三原色纤维条的喂入比例,实现混纺比例的控制,从而生产出柔性灵活的段彩纱。利用段彩纱不同片段长度色彩的自循环形式与织物组织结构相结合,织造出4种段彩纱生成的不同织物图案。所织织物的图案特征表明:以三通道转杯纺段彩纱为原料织成的织物颜色丰富含蓄,图案层次分明,手感柔和,具有朦胧的立体效果。认为:织物图案与三通道转杯纺段彩纱的双向设计为段彩纱织物图案一体化开发提供更多创新思路。In order to solve phenomenon of wide range dyeing varieties,water waste and serious pollution of colored textiles,bidirectional design method of fabric pattern and three-channel rotor spinning segement colored yarn was proposed.By adjusting online feeding ratio of three primary color fiber sliver on three-channel rotor spinning machine,control of blending ratio was realized,soft and flexible segment colored yarn was produced.Combining selfcirculation form of different segment length colors with fabric structure,four different fabric patterns generated by segment colored yarns were woven.Pattern characteristics of the woven fabric showed that the fabric which woven by three-channel rotor spinning segement colored yarn has rich and implicit color,distinct patterns,soft feel and blear three-dimensional effect.It is considered that bidirectional design of fabric pattern and three-channel rotor spinning segment colored yarn provides more innovative ideas for the integrated development of segment colored yarn fabric pattern.

关 键 词：转杯纺 段彩纱 织物图案 织物设计 三通道 针织产品 机织产品 绿色环保 

分 类 号：TS106.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]