绅士风尚的圭臬——基于晨礼服案例分析  

The Standard of Gentleman's Fashion--Based on the Case Study of Morning Dress

作　　者：何远骏 刘瑞璞[1] HE Yuanjun;LIU Ruipu(School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029 China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2021年第1期63-67,共5页Fashion Guide

基　　金：北京市社科规划项目(B2020-13)。

摘　　要：[研究意义]基于解决我国业界对国际着装规则(The Dress Code)的礼服知识系统认知程度不高、系统性研究和设计研发专业性不足的现状。[研究方法]文章针对于英国皇家赛马会历年的着装规则及现实案例分析,结合重要服装类历史文献研究,分析晨礼服经典形制的发展历程及简化趋势和“由常至礼”的发展过程,探究晨礼服在国际着装规则中作为日间第一礼服的重要地位。[研究结果与结论]研究表明,晨礼服的身世承载着贵族血统,其经典形制的演化轨迹体现了稳固的社交准则,被绅士风尚奉为圭臬。因此,创新(美)不能忽视规则(善),而规则必须以科学(真)为基础。The Chinese apparel industry has a low level of awareness of the dress code.The systematic research and professional design of the dress knowledge system are insufficient.On the basis of several years'study of dress code of the Royal Ascot,actual dress case analysis and some important historical documents of clothing,the article explored the development process and simplification trend of the classic form of morning dress,the change from casual attire to formal attire and its importance positions as the first dress of the day in the dress code.Studies have shown that the history of morning dress carried aristocratic ancestry,and the evolutionary trajectory of its classic form embodied a solid social norm,which was regarded as a standard by gentleman fashion.Therefore,innovation shouldn’t ignore the rules,and the rules must be based on science.

关 键 词：晨礼服 英国皇家赛马会 绅士文化 着装规则 

分 类 号：TS941.7-9[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]