基于图像处理的翻驳领造型与织物性能关系  

Relationship Between Property of Fabric and Shape of Lapel Collar Based on Image Processing

作　　者：张佳慧 王建萍[1,2,3] 吴巧英 陈冬蕾[4] ZHANG Jiahui;WANG Jianping;WU Qiaoying;CHEN Donglei(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Shanghai International Institute of Design and Innovation,Tongji University,Shanghai 200092,China;School of Fashion Design and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051 [3]同济大学上海国际设计创新研究院,上海200092 [4]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《服装学报》2021年第1期8-13,共6页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金项目(2232020G-08)。

摘　　要：为研究翻驳领造型与织物性能之间的量化关系,选用4种面料和5种黏合衬作为实验对象,测试其物理力学性能,并采用同一工艺制作20件翻驳领样衣,从正视、侧视、背视和俯视4个角度采用数码相机采集翻驳领样衣图像,用Photoshop,MATLAB,Unigraphics NX图像处理软件提取前门襟止口张开量、领内口线曲率最大值、领内口间隙量、领外口间隙量4个造型参数指标客观评价翻驳领造型,并通过相关分析和回归分析进行数据处理。结果表明,翻驳领造型评价与面料厚度、硬挺度、悬垂指数以及黏合衬柔软度、硬挺度、弹力指数关系密切,选用悬垂性好、硬挺度佳的薄面料以及高弹力、平整柔韧的黏合衬制作出的翻驳领造型较好。To study the quantitative relationship between shape of lapel collar and properties of fabric,four kinds of fabrics and five kinds of interfacings were selected to test the physical properties,and made 20 samples with the same pattern.Photos of lapel collar with digital camera from different angles of front view,side view,back view and overlook were taken.Photoshop,MATLAB,Unigraphics NX software were then used to extract 4 indicators as objective evaluation indexes.The chosen objective evaluation indexes were as follows:the opening amount of the front flapper,the max curvature of the lapel,neckline’s gap,outline’s gap.Data was processed through correlation and regression analysis.The results show that:lapel collar’s shape is related to fabric’s thickness,stiffness,draping index and interfacing’s softness,stiffness,elastic index.Lapel looks better when using the lighter fabric with better drape,and tidier,softer interfacing with better elasticity.

关 键 词：翻驳领 造型 图像处理 客观评价 织物性能 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]