Study on the Set-up and Set-down Induced by Breaking Waves Over A Reef  

作　　者：LIU Qing-jun WANG Deng-ting WEI Zhang-ping XU Hua SUN Tian-ting 

机构地区：[1]Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute,Nanjing 210029,China [2]College of Harbour Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Hohai University,Nanjing 210098,China [3]Key Laboratory of Port,Waterway&Sedimentation Engineering of MOT,Nanjing 210029,China [4]Department of Physics and Physical Oceanography,University of North Carolina Wilmington,Wilmington,NC 28403,USA

出　　处：《China Ocean Engineering》2020年第6期853-862,共10页中国海洋工程（英文版）

基　　金：jointly supported by the National Key R&D Program of China (Grant No. 2018YFC0407503);the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 51779149);the Scientific Research Project of Yangtze-to-Huaihe Water Diversion Project (Grant No. YJJHYJJC-ZX-20191106220);the Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Special Fund for Basic Scientific Research of Central Public Research Institutes(Grant Nos. Y220002, Y219012 and Y220013);the Water Conservancy Science and Technology Project of Jiangsu Province (Grant No. 2019009)。

摘　　要：This paper proposes an equation to calculate breaking wave induced wave set-up and set-down along reef flat. The mathematical equation was derived based on the theory of radiation stress and the conservation of wave energy. The equation is primarily determined by several physical variables including the breaking wave index, the stable wave index, the attenuation coefficient of wave energy flux, and the flow velocity in the re-stabilization zone. A series of laboratory experiments were carried out to calibrate the theoretical equations. Specifically, the breaking wave index,the stable wave index, and the velocity over the reef flat were measured in the laboratory. The attenuation coefficient of wave energy flux in our theoretical equation was determined by calibration by comparing with the laboratory measured wave height. Furthermore, it has been put forward that the velocity based on cnoidal wave theory could be used to determine the velocity over the reef flat if there is no velocity measurement available. Overall, the proposed equation can provide satisfactory prediction of wave set-up and set-down along the reef flat.

关 键 词：wave set-up and set-down streamwise variation breaking waves reef flat reef terrain 

分 类 号：P75[天文地球—海洋科学] P731.22