基于欧根缎力学性能的服装设计  

Fashion design based on the mechanical properties of silk satin organza

作　　者：韩旭辉 HAN Xuhui(College of Fashion and Design Art,Sichuan Normal University,Chengdu 610010,Sichuan,China)

机构地区：[1]四川师范大学服装与设计艺术学院,四川成都610010

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2021年第3期15-18,共4页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：国家艺术基金项目[2019-A-04-(117)-0659];教育部人文社会科学研究青年项目(20YJC760026)。

摘　　要：欧根缎是近年来流行的一种轻薄型丝织物,其织物风格独特。对欧根缎的拉伸、折皱弹性、悬垂性、硬挺度、纰裂等力学性能进行测试,并与真丝缎、绡、塔夫绸、富春纺4种丝织物进行比较分析,得出真丝欧根缎不同于常见丝绸织物,具有弹性差、悬垂性差、硬挺、易纰裂等特点,并进行了服装款式设计、结构设计、工艺设计和成品制作。力学试验摆脱了主观经验的不确定性,为根据面料性能科学进行服装全流程设计提供了参考依据。Silk satin organza is a kind of light silk fabric popular in recent years with unique style.The mechanical properties of the crease,wrinkle,drape,stiffness and splitting are tested,and the mechanical properties of four kinds of light silk fabrics such as silk satin organza,sheer silks,taffeta and fuchun rayon taffeta are comparatively analyzed.The results show that the silk satin organza has poor elasticity,poor drape,stiffness,and easy stitch slipping.The garment style design,structural design and process design are carried out.Mechanics experiment get rid of the uncertainty of subjective experience and provide a basis for the whole process design of the fabric according to the performance of the fabric.

关 键 词：真丝织物 欧根缎 机械性能 服装设计 结构 工艺 织物风格 

分 类 号：TS146[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]