中国服装原型制版现况调查和分析  

Investigation and Analysis of Chinese Garment Prototype Plate-making

作　　者：刘咏梅[1,2] 徐丹娘 张向辉[1,2] LIU Yong-mei;XU Dan-niang;ZHANG Xiang-hui(College of Fashion and Art Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2021年第2期23-30,共8页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

摘　　要：服装原型作为最基础的服装纸样在服装制版领域广泛使用,对服装原型制版使用情况展开调查,调查问卷基于基础性问题、制版领域服装原型的普及情况分析、常用原型的普及和使用情况差异、专业制版领域对原型修正的认知程度4方面设立问题。分析得到现阶段服装制版人群专业水平较高,服装原型普及程度较高,国内制版常用原型为东华原型和日本文化原型,制版人群对服装原型的持续性研究和更新认知较为一般,服装原型与人体的不符合部位主要包括:袖窿、肩部和胸浮余量,服装原型的修正方向包括:持续监测体型大数据,发布体型变化趋势适应性修正原型;增加原型的年龄特征、地区特征等适用性研究;增加腰围、臀围等可选择性控制参数,增加原型的适用性。Garment prototype,as the most basic garment pattern,is widely used in the garment plate-making.The use of garment prototype plate-making is investigated and analyzed.The questionnaire is based on the basic questions,the analysis of the popularity of garment prototype in plate-making field,the difference of the popularity and usage of commonly used prototypes,and the cognition of the revision of prototype in professional plate-making field.It is found that the professional level of people in the field of garment plate-making is high,and the popularity of garment prototypes is high.The commonly used prototypes in domestic plate-making are Donghua prototypes and Japanese cultural prototypes.The continuous research and updated cognition of garment prototype are general.The parts of garment prototype that do not accord with human body mainly include armhole,shoulder and chest floating allowance.The future direction of garment prototype revision includes:the continuous monitoring of big data of body shape,the adaptive modification of the prototype,the increase of study in age and area characteristics of the prototype,the increase of optional control parameters,and the increase of the prototype applicability.

关 键 词：服装原型 服装制版 调研分析 原型补正 持续性研究 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]