免烫衬衫面料褶裥定型工艺探讨  

Discussion on Pleating Process of Non-Ironing Shirt Fabrics

作　　者：王昌钊 宋海燕 刘洋洋 陈峰 张庆法 李成尧 肖雁 何振兴 WANG Chang-zhao;SONG Hai-yan;LIU Yang-yang;CHEN Feng;ZHANG Qing-fa;LI Cheng-yao;XIAO Yan;HE Zhen-xing(Luthai Textile Co.Ltd.,Zibo,Shandong 255100,China)

机构地区：[1]鲁泰纺织股份有限公司,山东淄博255100

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2021年第2期31-35,共5页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

摘　　要：采用树脂压烫的方式,对高免烫面料进行褶裥定型,克服了传统免烫面料褶裥不平整、褶裥持久性差等问题。为优化褶裥定型工艺,对树脂浓度、压烫压力、压烫温度、压烫时间等影响褶裥定型效果的因素进行L_(9)(3^(4))正交实验,得出:影响褶裥定型工艺因素大小依次为压烫时间、压烫温度、压烫压力、树脂浓度;试验面料在树脂浓度为100g/L、压烫压力为6Kg、压烫时间为14s、压烫温度为155℃的褶裥定型工艺条件下,洗涤10次后褶裥持久性提高至到4.5级。By using the method of resin pressing,the high non-ironing fabric is shaped by pleating,which overcomes the problems of uneven pleating and poor durability of traditional non-ironing fabrics.In order to optimize the pleating process,an L_(9)(3^(4))orthogonal test was carried out on the factors that affect the pleat shaping,including the resin concentration,pressing pressure,pressing temperature,and pressing time.Results show that the process factors affecting pleat retention are pressing time,pressing temperature,pressing press,and resin concentration.When the resin concentration is 100 g/L,the pressing pressure is 6 Kg,the pressing time is14 S,and the pressing temperature is 155℃,the pleating durability can be increased to Grade 4.5 after washing for 10 times.

关 键 词：免烫 褶裥定型工艺 褶裥持久性 压烫时间 

分 类 号：TS195.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]