经编双贾卡提花间隔鞋面材料的设计开发  

Design of Warp Knitted Double Jacquard Spaced Shoe Vamp Fabric

作　　者：陈梦佳 蒋高明[1] 张燕婷 Chen Mengjia;Jiang Gaoming;Zhang Yanting(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《针织工业》2021年第3期25-28,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金-重点项目(JUSRP51727A);湖北省纺织新材料及其应用国家重点实验室项目(DTL2017009);无锡市针织科技服务平台项目(WX03-07D0304-021700-06)。

摘　　要：提出一种经编双贾卡提花间隔鞋面材料的设计方法,包括原料设计、组织结构设计、花型设计、上机工艺参数设计和后整理等。以具体开发案例为例,详细阐述经编双贾卡提花间隔鞋面材料的开发流程,并在24针/25.4 mm的RDPJ7/2双针床双贾卡经编机上开发一款双贾卡提花间隔鞋面材料,给出贾卡意匠图和编织工艺设计参数等。结果表明,所开发的经编间隔提花织物不仅具有良好的花型外观,还具备间隔织物良好的吸湿透湿、抗压减震等物理性能,可用作休闲运动鞋面,也可用作运动鞋内衬或其他装饰类衬垫织物,为其他经编贾卡提花面料的开发提供理论参考依据。In order to design and develop the warp-knitted double-jacquard spaced material,this paper proposes a design method,including raw material design,pattern design,jacquard design,machine parameters setting and post-finishing.Taking a fabric as an example,it explains the design and development process of the warp-knitted double jacquard spaced shoe vamp fabric in detail and develops a double Jacquard spaced material on the 24 G RDPJ7/2 jacquard warp-knitting machine.The obtained fabric has not only good appearance,but also good physical properties,such as moisture absorption,impact absorption and so on.It can be used as shoes upper or as decorative fabric,can also provide the theoretical reference for the development of other warp-knitted jacquard fabrics.

关 键 词：经编 双贾卡 间隔织物 鞋面材料 编织工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]