快时尚针织面料用混纺纱的设计与分析  

Design and analysis of blended yarns for fast fashion knitted fabrics

作　　者：秦路路 Qin Lulu(College of Textile and Garment,Hebei Textile and Garment Engineering Technology Research Center,Shijiazhuang,China)

机构地区：[1]河北科技大学,河北省纺织服装工程技术研究中心(中国)

出　　处：《国际纺织导报》2021年第1期6-9,17,共5页Melliand China

摘　　要：根据目前快时尚服装面料的用纱需求,通过测试分析黏胶纤维、腈纶的物理力学性能,选取0.10、0.13和0.17 tex 3种不同线密度的纤维,与锦纶和PBT长丝进行配伍混纺,在相同的纺纱工艺条件下,设计试纺6种相同规格的混纺包芯纱,测试分析最终成纱的强伸度、毛羽指数和条干均匀度。结果表明:不同线密度的黏胶纤维、腈纶与锦纶混纺,纤维越细,成纱性能越好;混纺纱的强伸度与单纤强度、纤维规格及种类密切相关;相同线密度的黏胶纤维和腈纶与锦纶混纺,腈纶/锦纶混纺纱的成纱质量较好;黏胶纤维与锦纶混纺前需进行抗静电预处理,以改善成纱性能。According to the current yarn demand for fast fashion apparel fabrics,the physical and mechanical properties of viscose fiber and acrylic fiber were tested and analyzed,and three types of fibers with different linear densities of 0.10,0.13 and 0.17 tex were selected and blended with polyamide fiber and PBT filaments.Under the same spinning process conditions,six kinds of blended core spun yarns with the same specifications were designed,and the final yarn strength and elongation,hairiness index and evenness were tested and analyzed.The results showed that for viscose fiber,acrylic fiber and polyamide fiber blended yarn with different linear densities,the finer the fiber was,the better the yarn performance was.The strength and elongation of the blended yarn were closely related to the single fiber strength,fiber specifications and types.The quality of acrylic fiber/polyamide fiber blended yarn was better when viscose fiber,acrylic fiber and polyamide fiber had the same linear density.In order to improve the yarn properties,antistatic pretreatment should be carried out before blending viscose fiber with polyamide fiber.

关 键 词：黏胶 锦纶 腈纶 纤维线密度 纱线性能 

分 类 号：TS104.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]