仿麂皮绒织物用海岛型复合网络丝生产实践  

Production practice of sea-island type composite network filament for imitation suede fabric

作　　者：余晓华[1,2] 陶建勤 Yu Xiaohua;Tao Jianqin(Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textile and Garment,Changzhou 213164,China;Changzhou Key Laboratory of Ecological Textile Technology,Changzhou 213164,China)

机构地区：[1]常州纺织服装职业技术学院,江苏常州213164 [2]常州市生态纺织技术重点实验室,江苏常州213164

出　　处：《纺织报告》2021年第2期23-27,共5页

摘　　要：为提高仿麂皮绒织物用海岛型复合网络丝的可织性、坯布经开纤后的易起绒性及其成品织物在质感方面的仿真效果,设计规格为105 dtex/36 f、组分为PET/COPET的海岛型POY与组分为PET的FDY作为原丝进行加工复合的DTY产品。以专业理论为指导,在原料选配、技术方案设计、设备改装、工艺参数配置基础上进行了试生产,并推导了坯布经开纤后的超细纤维平均直径预测公式、规定了针对实际生产的物理指标与外观质量控制标准,为仿麂皮绒织物用海岛型复合网络丝的开发与生产提供理论依据与实践参考。In order to improve the weavability of sea-island composite network filament for imitation suede,the easy fuzzing of grey fabric after opening fiber and the simulation effect of finished fabric in texture,sea-island POY with 105 dtex/36 f,PET/COPET and FDY with PET as precursor were designed for processing composite DTY products.Guided by professional theory,the trial production was carried out on the basis of raw material selection,technical scheme design,equipment modification and process parameter configuration.The prediction formula of the average diameter of the superfine fiber after the opening of the grey fabric was deduced,and the physical index and appearance quality control standard for the actual production were specified,which provided theoretical basis and practical referenc for the development and production of sea-island type composite network filament for imitation suede fabric.

关 键 词：仿麂皮绒 海岛型 复合网络丝 可织性 直径预测 

分 类 号：TS131.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]