硫辛酸酯的实验室制备方法及其在化妆品中的应用进展  

Laboratory preparation of lipoic acid esters and their application prospect in cosmetics

作　　者：宋京九 郭晓丹 王东[1] 祝钧[1,2] SONG Jing-jiu;GUO Xiao-dan;WANG Dong;ZHU Jun(College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China;Key Laboratory of Cosmetics,China National Light Industry,Beijing 100048,China)

机构地区：[1]北京工商大学化学与材料工程学院,北京100048 [2]中国轻工业化妆品重点实验室,北京100048

出　　处：《日用化学工业》2021年第4期356-362,369,共8页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

基　　金：北京市高等学校教学名师支持项目资助(19005753005);广西保健食品化妆品监管业务技术培训合作项目资助(19000551362);北京工商大学研究生科研能力提升项目。

摘　　要：硫辛酸既是药品,也是一种多功能抗氧化剂。以硫辛酸为原料的化妆品虽性能优秀,但也存在不少问题,如不易保存、刺激性强等。且硫辛酸的不稳定性和弱水溶性也给实验人员带来研究上的不便。将硫辛酸和其他功效性原料结合为硫辛酸酯,可以改善硫辛酸的不足,同时增进功效。酯化反应是化学界最经典的反应之一,催化方式多而繁杂,且各自具有独特的优缺点。但据统计,只有其中几种方法使用频次最高,许多优秀的酯化方法常常被忽视。该文从化学催化和生物酶催化两个方面综述了硫辛酸酯的实验室制备方法,对每种方法的优劣加以分析,并对硫辛酸酯在化妆品方面的应用前景进行了展望。Lipoic acid is both a drug and a multi-functional antioxidant.The cosmetics using lipoic acid as raw material have excellent performance,but they also have many problems,such as being not easy to preserve and strong irritation.The instability and poor water solubility of lipoic acid also bring inconvenience to professionals in research.The combination of lipoic acid with other functional materials as lipoic acid esters can improve the deficiency of lipoic acid and enhance the efficacy.The esterification reaction is one of the most classic reactions in the chemical world.There are many catalytic methods,and each method has unique advantages and disadvantages.However,according to statistics,only a few of them were most frequently used,and many excellent esterification methods had often been ignored.The laboratory preparation methods of lipoic acid esters were summarized from the aspects of chemical catalysis and biological enzyme catalysis.The advantages and disadvantages of each method were analyzed,and the application prospect of lipoic acid esters in cosmetics was discussed.

关 键 词：硫辛酸酯 酯化反应 化妆品 生物酶催化 化学催化 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]