化妆品植物原料(Ⅱ)——抑制酪氨酸酶活性的植物美白原料的研究与开发  

Botanical cosmetic ingredient(Ⅱ)Research and development of tyrosinase inhibitors from plant extracts in skin whitening

作　　者：任倩倩 吴华[1,2] 金建明[1,2] REN Qian-qian;WU Hua;JIN Jian-ming(Department of Cosmetics,College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China;Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China)

机构地区：[1]北京工商大学化学与材料工程学院化妆品系,北京100048 [2]北京工商大学化妆品监管科学研究院,北京100048

出　　处：《日用化学工业》2021年第3期178-185,共8页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(31971382)。

摘　　要：黑色素是导致人类皮肤和头发色素沉着的主要因素。酪氨酸酶是黑色素生物合成途径的关键酶。其中抑制酪氨酸酶是减少皮肤黑色素产生的主要策略之一。文章介绍了黑色素的生物合成途径、蘑菇酪氨酸酶与人酪氨酸酶的区别、酪氨酸酶抑制机理以及抑制酪氨酸酶活性的植物提取物和单体成分。抑制酪氨酸酶活性的植物成分通常为含有苯环或酚羟基结构的化合物,主要包括对苯二酚类、苯甲醛和苯甲酸酯类、苯乙素类、苯丙素类、二苯乙烯类、黄酮、多酚和醌类化合物。并对一些植物成分的结构和酪氨酸酶抑制活性的相关性进行阐述,希望能为相关研究工作者提供帮助。Melanogenesis is a primary cause responsible for the pigmentation of human skin and hair.Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin biosynthetic pathway.Inhibition of tyrosinase activity is one of the main strategies to reduce the formation of melanin in the skin.Here we reviewed the melanin biosynthetic pathway,the differences between mushroom tyrosinase(mTYR)and human tyrosinase(hTYR),mechamisms of tyrosinase inhibition,and the plant extracts and monomer components that inhibit tyrosinase activity.The active plant components that inhibit tyrosinases include hydroquinone and its derivatives,benzaldehyde and benzoate derivatives,phenethyls,phenylpropanoids,stilbenes and their derivatives,flavonoids,polyphenols and quinones,which contain the benzene ring or phenolic hydroxy group in their structures.The correlation between the structure of tyrosinase inhibitors from plant extracts and tyrosinase inhibitory activity was discussed,hoping to provide help for relevant researches.

关 键 词：植物提取物 美白化妆品 蘑菇酪氨酸酶 人酪氨酸酶 抑制剂 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]