女装衣身前浮余量与人体胸凸形态的关系  

Relationship between garment dart and breast feature of female body

作　　者：崔文 李小辉[1,2,3] CUI Wen;LI Xiaohui(College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China;Shanghai International Institute of Design & Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]同济大学上海国际设计创新研究院,上海200092 [3]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《纺织学报》2021年第4期139-143,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金资助项目(2232019G-08)。

摘　　要：为解决个体化女装衣身胸部浮余量获取繁琐、误差偏大等问题,提出一种基于人体体型特征的数学模型。通过人体胸凸形态的影响因素分析,提取胸围和上下胸围差作为体型特征参数,基于立体几何原理构建前衣身浮余量的数学模型;随机选取实验对象对数学模型进行立体裁剪和实际样衣试穿的实验验证,并对二者所得浮余量进行配对样本T检验。结果表明:数学模型与实际获取的结果无显著性差异,前浮余量角度可表示为胸围和胸围差的函数;依据体型特征参数构建的衣身浮余量设计方法可更为准确、高效地表征胸凸形态,满足个体化女装结构设计的需求。In order to solve the problems of tedious acquisition and large errors of dart in the pattern design of individualized women′s garment,a mathematical modeling method based on feature extraction of female body was proposed.Through the analysis of the influencing factors of the shape of chest,the bust and the difference between upper bust and lower bust was extracted as feature parameters to construct the mathematical model for the front dart.The sample try-on experiment was carried out on the randomly selected test subjects,and paired sample T test with the dart obtained by mathematical method was conducted.The results show that there is a good agreement between the results obtained by mathematical analysis and the actual results.The angle of the front dart based on the body feature can be expressed as a function of the bust and the difference between upper bust and lower bust,and the design method of dart is accurate under the premise of reflecting the body feature efficiently and meet the needs of the individualized garment pattern design.

关 键 词：衣身浮余量 胸凸曲面 体型特征 个体化服装 数学建模 女装 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]