服装松量设计及表征模型构建研究进展  

Progress in garment ease design and its modeling methods

作　　者：张益洁 李涛[1] 吕叶馨[1] 杜磊 邹奉元[1,3] ZHANG Yijie;LI Tao;LÜ Yexin;DU Lei;ZOU Fengyuan(School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China;Shangyu College, Shaoxing University, Shaoxing, Zhejiang 312300, China;Apparel Engineering Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018 [2]绍兴文理学院上虞分院,浙江绍兴312300 [3]浙江理工大学浙江省服装工程技术研究中心,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《纺织学报》2021年第4期184-190,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金面上项目(11671009)。

摘　　要：为揭示服装松量与虚拟试衣、服装样板设计的关系,以松量分类为基础,分别从松量影响因素、研究方法及松量表征等3个层面解析服装松量设计。归纳了松量表征方法的特点,阐述了松量表征模型的最新研究进展,分析了松量在虚拟试衣和服装样板设计中的作用。研究表明:有效的松量设计应充分考虑人体着装形态、服装合体性及舒适性等因素,松量的直接表征和间接表征从不同角度体现了服装与人体间的关系;应将松量充分结合至虚拟试衣和服装样板设计,以促进虚拟服装的真实性,实现服装样板的智能化设计。研究认为松量的三维空间表征、连续动态分布和服装三维空间松量预测模型研究是未来主要探索方向。In order to reveal the relationship between garment ease allowance and virtual try-on even garment pattern design,the influencing factors of ease allowance,research methods and representation were reviewed and analyzed.The characteristics of ease allowance representation methods were summarized,and the latest research progress in ease representation models were scrutinized in particular.The effect of garment ease in virtual try-on and pattern design were further analyzed,respectively.It shows that the effective garment ease design should consider the factors of human body′s dress form,clothing fit and comfort.The direct and indirect representation methods reflect the relationship between clothing and human body from different perspectives.The combination of ease allowance with garment virtual try-on and pattern design is effective to promote the authenticity of virtual try-on and facilitate intelligent design of clothing.The review indicates that three-dimensional spatial representation,continuous dynamic distribution and the construction of three-dimensional prediction models of ease allowance are regarded as the main research directions in garment ease in the future.

关 键 词：服装松量 表征模型 虚拟试衣 服装样板设计 三维服装CAD 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]