桑蚕丝织物柿漆染色工艺及性能  

Dyeing process and performance of persimmon lacquer for silk fabric

作　　者：张樱 王利君[1,2,3] ZHANG Ying;WANG Lijun(School of Fashion Design,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Clothing Engineering Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Inheriting and Products Design Digital Technology,Ministry of Culture and Tourism,P.R.China,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学浙江省服装工程技术研究中心,杭州310018 [3]浙江理工大学丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化部重点实验室,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第5期1-7,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(71503233);中国纺织工业协会项目(J201801)。

摘　　要：针对柿漆染色后桑蚕丝织物手感硬化问题,文章运用K/S值与低应力下织物性能评价得到染色工艺参数的合适范围,采用正交实验优化染色工艺,利用扫描电子显微镜、红外光谱等分析柿漆染色后桑蚕丝织物的表面形态、化学组成。结果表明:优化染色工艺为柿漆稀释比例1︰3,染色8次,浴比1︰40,pH值为6;傅立叶红外光谱表明染色后桑蚕丝织物表面存在大量缩合单宁,织物具有良好的色牢度和紫外线防护能力;经柿漆染色后的桑蚕丝织物柔软而有身骨,不黏皮肤,经久耐用。To solve the problem of hardened hand feeling of fabric after persimmon dyeing,an appropriate range of dyeing process parameters was obtained through K/S value and fabric performance evaluation under low-load.The dyeing process was optimized in orthogonal experiments.The surface morphology and chemical components of the dyed fabric were analyzed using Scanning Electron Microscope and infrared spectrum.The results show that the condition for optimum dyeing processis︰dilution ratio of persimmon lacquer is 1︰3,dyeing for 8 times,bath ratio of 1︰40,pH=6.Fourier Transform Infrared Spectrometer indicated that a large amount of condensed tannins are left on the dyed silk fabric surface;the dyed silk fabric has good color fastness and UV protection performance;the silk fabric after dyeing by persimmon is soft and textured,non-skin-sticking and durable.

关 键 词：柿单宁 天然染色 桑蚕丝织物 染色工艺 KES织物风格 柿漆 

分 类 号：TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]