清宫礼吉服中的黄色及槐子黄栌染色研究  

A study on yellow and dyeing with sophora japonica and cotinus coggygria in the royal dress of Qing dynasty palace

作　　者：金鉴梅 赵丰[1,2] 刘剑 王业宏 JIN Jianmei;ZHAO Feng;LIU Jian;WANG Yehong(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China;China College of Fine Art and Design,Wenzhou University,Wenzhou 325035,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310012 [3]温州大学美术与设计学院,浙江温州325035

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第5期26-33,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省社科规划课题项目(21NDJC142YB)。

摘　　要：黄色是中国传统色彩中的五正色之一,也是清代宫廷特有的、应用于正式场合的礼吉服用色。文章探讨了清宫礼吉服中明黄、杏黄、金黄三种色彩的功用范围、色相区域及染色工艺。通过文献资料的梳理分析得知:礼吉服色中等级次序为明黄>杏黄>金黄,且有详细的使用规范。依据织染局染作档案记载进行模拟实验结果表明,炒槐子染液放置发酵5 d以上后,a^(*)、b^(*)和K/S值均明显上升,明黄色更可能是炒槐子染液放置发酵5~15 d染色而成。槐子和黄栌套染时,增加黄栌比例、以K_(2)CO_(3)溶液进行后处理,可以使染得颜色向橙红色变化,从而获得杏黄和金黄色。Yellow as one of the five China’s traditional primary colors is also a unique color used for formal occasions in royal dress.The paper discusses the function scope,hue range and dyeing process of bright yellow,apricot yellow and golden yellow used in Qing dynasty royal dress.Through the analysis of document literature,it is found that the rank order of colors in royal dress is bright yellow>apricot yellow>golden yellow,and there are detailed usage specifications applicable for these colors.The results of the simulation experiment based on the archiving records of Weaving and Dyeing Bureau showed that the values of a^(*),b^(*)and K/S increased significantly after the dye liquor of fried sophora japonica was placed to ferment for more than 5 days.And there is a greater possibility that bright yellow is dyed by the dye liquor of fried sophora japonica after standing to ferment for 5-15 days.When overdyeing with sophora japonica and cotinus coggygria,by increasing the proportion of cotinus coggygria or finishing with K_(2)CO_(3) solution,the dyed color will have an orange-red change,thus obtaining apricot yellow and golden yellow.

关 键 词：清代宫廷 黄色 染色工艺 槐子 黄栌 礼吉服 色彩区域 

分 类 号：TS193.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]