服装穿着起拱等级的主客观评价  

Subjective and objective evaluation of wearing bagging grade

作　　者：郑晓萍 刘成霞[1,2] 孙思晴[1] ZHENG Xiaoping;LIU Chengxia;SUN Siqing(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Province Engineering Laboratory of Clothing Digital Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学服装数字化技术浙江省工程实验室,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第5期47-52,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省自然科学基金项目(LY20E050017);浙江省大学生科技创新活动计划暨新苗人才计划项目(2019R406072);浙江理工大学研究生优秀学位论文基金项目(2019M28)。

摘　　要：为准确、客观地评价服装穿着起拱性能,文章以18种机织面料为研究对象,将其制成裤子进行穿着起拱实验,利用三维扫描技术获取膝部起拱点云数据,对预处理后的数据进行主观评价和指标提取,得到曲面指标:均值、方差、峰度、均偏移、粗糙度和扭曲度,将6个曲面指标和起拱高度分别与主观起拱等级进行回归分析。结果表明:在着装起拱实验中,方差、粗糙度和均偏移预测起拱等级的优度均高于起拱高度。采用逐步回归法建立的综合模型预测起拱等级的优度最高为0.918,该模型可以合理地反映着装起拱等级,为客观评价服装起拱性能提供依据。To evaluate the wearing bagging properties accurately and objectively,18 woven fabrics were selected to make into pants for wearing bagging tests.The knee bagging point cloud data were obtained by using 3 D laser scanner.Then the processed data were subjectively evaluated and indicators were extracted to obtain surface indexes include mean,variance,kurtosis,average deviation,roughness and torsion.Then the regression analysis of 6 surface indexes and bagging height with subjective bagging grade was conducted.The results showed that the superiority of variance,roughness and average deviation in predicting bagging grade is higher than that of bagging height.A comprehensive index model established by stepwise regression method is used to predict the degree of superiority of clothing bagging grade,which is 0.918.The model can reasonably reflect the clothing bagging grade and provide a basis for objectively evaluating wearing bagging.

关 键 词：裤子穿着起拱 曲面指标 起拱高度 主观评价 客观评价 起拱变形 膝部关节 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]