宋代服饰“褙子”的形制及其功能考释  

A study on the shape,structure and function of costume Beizi in Song dynasty

作　　者：卿源 梁惠娥[1,2,3] QING Yuan;LIANG Hui’e(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Jiangnan Research Center for Intangible Cultural Heritage,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Master Studio,Wuxi Vocational Institute of Arts and Technology,Wuxi 214206,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学设计学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学江苏省非物质文化遗产研究基地,江苏无锡214122 [3]无锡工艺职业技术学院名师工作室,江苏无锡214206

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第5期86-93,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏高校哲学社会科学研究重大项目(2019SJZDA021)。

摘　　要：褙子是宋代极具时代特色和代表性的服饰,不分贵贱,均可服之。文章以墓葬出土实物为基础,结合图像资料、古籍文献等多重证据进行互证,针对宋代服饰褙子形制及分类、其形制蕴含的功能进行阐释分析。研究表明:宋代褙子样式多元,女款褙子形制可分为礼服式、常服式、便服式三种,多在袖式与衣身长度做变化;男款褙子形制可分为常服式、便服式两种,主要在领型上存在差异;其形制注重日常的实用、审美的表达和文化的延伸三方面的功能体现。Beizi,a representative costume with the characteristics of the Song dynasty,is suitable for people irrespective of high or low birth.Based on the unearthed physical objects from tombs,through the verification of a variety of evidences such as image data and ancient books,this paper explained and analyzed the shape,structure and classification of the costumes in Song dynasty,as well as the functions therein.The research showed that Beizi in Song dynasty was in diversified styles.The shape of female can be classified into three types:formal dress,regular dress and casual dress,which mostly varied in sleeve style and body length;the shape of male Beizi can be classified into two types:regular dress and casual dress,mostly different in the collar type;its shape and structure were focused on daily utility,aesthetic expression and cultural extension.

关 键 词：宋代服饰 褙子 传统服饰 常服 公服 便服 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]